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Campi Qui Pugui
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Anabolica 
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Delicatessan 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
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Submitted By: Monomaniac on Dec 9, 2009
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Beginning up the stellar "Delicatessan".

Description 

The most classic 12a at Siurana, Delicatessen offers fun climbing on a relatively steep & juggy wall (by Siurana standards). While the holds are generally above average in size, this is no gimme. Also, the moves to the first bolt, while easy, are extremely exposed.

Climb up & left along a juggy flake to the first bolt. Continue left along the broken band to good jugs way left. Climb up along fun, juggy flakes, then make a desperate traverse back right via a tiny edge to reach the fourth bolt & another flake. Move up the flakes & small pockets to a good shake below a blank section. Make a big move to a protruding edge, then another big move off of it to reach a good rest at big pockets. Race the pump up the juggy headwall to the anchor on the slab.


Location 

At the far left end of Campi is a ledge that hosts five routes. This is the furthest left route.


Protection 

Bolts to 2 BA. Stick clip recommended.



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