Delicacy 5.10+
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10+ [details] |
| FA: | Rob Duncan and Zac Robinson |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Rob Duncan on Apr 9, 2010 |
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BETA PHOTO: Photo by tenesmus. Manager's Special is Yellow whi...
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Description This variation of Manager's Special was kindly offered by Z Robinson to R Duncan on April 9th. A fun route that is capped by an absolutely stellar finger crack (that just doesn't seem long enough!). A hand crack to a tenuous slab step-over move, to a splitter finger crack (with good feet in the finger crack!)
Location Same as for Manager's Special, except upon completion of the hand crack (before entering the gaping chimney/offwidth) step up and left to gain the obvious splitter finger crack.
Protection Bring pro from small fingers (blue aliens) to 3.5". A few long runners are needed to keep the rope drag manageable. A bolt protects the delicate and exciting slab move that is necessary to gain the killer finger crack. Two bolt anchor. Easily rapped with a 60m.
By tenesmus
Apr 10, 2010
| Excellent! Glad you got the vision and did it. I assume you have the one (very necessary) new bolt, then the anchors right by the bomber finger crack (put in previously), then to the top to the anchors of King Lizard? |
By Zac Robinson
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 10, 2010
| Exactly. It almost seems like each piece should be extended once you are past it. The step over onto the slab is great.
This route was almost named Delicacy. |
By mountainsense
Apr 11, 2010
| It's a very cool move, stepping left out of the Manager's Special and around the prow--very improbable, LCC slab magic! What a day! S |
By mountainsense
Apr 29, 2010
| What happened to Quarter-Life Lovin'? |
By Rob Duncan
From: Salt Lake City
May 2, 2010
| 'delicacy' fits with the managers special theme better, and that step over move shouldn't be forgotten! |
By Todd Green
From: SLC, UT
Jun 23, 2010
| Didn't realize that sparrow was on the menu. :( |
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