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Main Wall - North
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Allez Lou T 
Bear Claw T 
Delayed Gratification T,S 
Dirty Sanchez T 
Frogger T 
Green Lantern S 
Green Weenie T 
Impaired Rendition T 
Intermission S 
La Nariz S 
Life By The Drop S 
Mangina S 
Midori Corner T 
Red Zinger S 
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Shadow Fax T 
Shadow Play T 
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Strong Arm T 
Submission S 
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Waterfall, The T 
White Punks on Dope T,S 

Delayed Gratification 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Eric Foster
New Route: Yes
Season: Shady most of the day
Page Views: 209
Submitted By: Erock on Mar 10, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

Start is the same as "White Punks on Dope" and instead of moving to the right at the top of the easy corner continue strait up bolted face through delicate thin face moves. Anchors are the same as Allez Lou.


Location 

Right Of Allez Lou.


Protection 

A couple of cams from .75-3. 4 Bolts to 2 bolt anchor.



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By roman d
From: Pasadena, CA
Apr 23, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Fun addition to the area - very thoughtful movement and hard to read sequences on headwall. I thought clipping the first bolt was a little awkward/committing. be careful of loose blocks at the top of the corner.

By Erock
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 23, 2012

I left a space on the bolting higher up where it was easier, did you think that it was ok? I tried to place the bolts in the best place I could. I would agree the moves are tricky. Glad you liked it.

Eric

By roman d
From: Pasadena, CA
Apr 23, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

The face is nicely bolted, with gear available between bolts at the top. I felt like it was right at my onsight limit and didn't stress about the pro anywhere.

First bolt felt kind of reachy, especially since I am tall, but I could easily have just botched that sequence.

By Erock
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 23, 2012

Ok, cool. Thanks for the feedback man!

By David Arthur Sampson
Apr 25, 2012

um. I would have to see the line, but it sounds a bit like this "new" climb shares some of the same terrain as "Sampson and Delilah", a top rope climb that manuel, laurel, and I did in 2005.