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Parking Lot Rock - West
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Delay of Game 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Reid, Dowdle (bolts: Dan and Pat Sperlock)
Page Views: 4,660
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jul 25, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (136)
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Delay of Game. Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

This route is the north most route on the west face. It can be reached by climbing up a flake (by a nice tree) to an obvious ledge. Whereas the 1st bolt is kind of high it is not hard to climb there and once clipped the protection is not lacking. Climb up the City of Rocks (pocketed edged) face past 11 bolts on this nice fin. Very straight-forward climbing with only the odd technical move thrown in.

Protection 

11 draws and 2 more for your chains. Also either 2 ropes are needed or you can hike to the south end of the buttress for 2 80-foot rappels.


Photos of Delay of Game Slideshow Add Photo
Parking and approach at Parking Lot Rock, as seen ...
Parking and approach at Parking Lot Rock, as seen ...
The wife (Sheri) leading Delay of Game!!!  Fun Rou...
The wife (Sheri) leading Delay of Game!!! Fun Rou...
Maura Hahnenberger on Delay of Game.
Maura Hahnenberger on Delay of Game.
Long 190 foot pitch of Delay of Game
Long 190 foot pitch of Delay of Game
unknown climber on the lower slab. Early September...
unknown climber on the lower slab. Early September...

Comments on Delay of Game Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 17, 2014
By Cristina Amat
Aug 2, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I used 13 quickdrawat the end big rope drag nice route first bolt quite high nice route nice chain stand for putting your rope meanwhile you belay up your partneryou need 2 ropes for rappel down
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 4, 2005

You can get off this with a single 70m rope into the "gully" climber's right of the route. - BJ Sbarra
By 46and2
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jul 16, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Very fun route and pretty easy to get to the first bolt; lucky for you there are now about 4 new bolts that did not used to be there so the runout is not too bad! Must Do!
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Aug 14, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Nice route with small run-out between fist and second bolts - 11 in total plus chains. Good rock, fun moves a definite must if you're at the base.
By wasatch-mtn-man
May 29, 2009

The first bolt really is quite high but the climb is easy to get there. Most of the bolts (all but one) were spinners. Fun climb though.
By Blitzo
Aug 23, 2010

Another fun route. I've done this a few times. More like 5.7.
By Matt Schroer
From: Logan, Utah
Jun 23, 2013

For a 5.8 clip up, this takes a beautiful line. I really enjoyed the movements over this arete.
By BJ Sbarra
From: Carbondale, CO
Aug 6, 2013

An 80m rope is perfect for this thing, no rapping into the gully shenanigans needed.
By S.Lee
Sep 1, 2013

Good route, solid 5.8 climbing the whole way. As mentioned before the runout is only near the first two bolts after that it is well protected.
By Daniel Nelson
From: Jackson, WY
Oct 29, 2013

This is a long slab climb start to finish. If you are not comfortable on slab, it will probably feel much more intimidating than 5.8 (as it did to me the first time I climbed it). Great training, however, if you need to become more comfortable on friction routes.
By ethanfromwildohio
Jun 17, 2014

If you are not used to granite/slab, the first (and second, for that matter) bolt can feel very scary. Making friction moves with decking potential is just not my cup of tea I guess. Although I heard you can make a rap off the south side, it's some pretty exposed scrambling to get there, I'd recommend the two rope rappel down the face if possible.