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Waterfall Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anti-Christ S 
Charlie Solo T,TR 
Clamydia S 
Convulsions T 
Degeneration T,TR 
Degeneration Left T,TR 
Falls, The S 
Greeboo, The S 
Leading to Death T,TR 
Lieback Corner T,TR 
Oracle, The S 
Putrefaction S,TR 
Unknown S 

Degeneration 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Don Simmons and Bruce Morris
Page Views: 7,352
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Aug 20, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (64)
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Sallie at the top of the 5.6 dihedral. Moving lef...

Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

To get to this climb: this is the furthest right climb on the rightside of the waterfall area, and the initial dihedral is usually the first thing seen when reaching this climbing area. This route involves a large simple dihedral for the first forty feet, leading to the first bolt, which is located about 35 or so feet off the ground.

After the first bolt, traverse right up a slabby face with an interesting crux located right before the second bolt.

Protection 

3 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor. You can set up a toprope by walking across the tops of the rocks from the right side (looking up) near the gully. Some larger pro (2" - 3 1/2") might prove useful in the beginning section of the route.


Photos of Degeneration Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The super fun lieback crack at the beginning - eve...
The super fun lieback crack at the beginning - eve...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sallie, high up about to attempt the crux moves.
Sallie, high up about to attempt the crux moves.
Rock Climbing Photo: Bottom section is an easy 5.6 splitter crack perfe...
Bottom section is an easy 5.6 splitter crack perfe...
Rock Climbing Photo: Brett Volway Working his way up
Brett Volway Working his way up
Rock Climbing Photo: Rightmost face of the Waterfall Cliff area -- From...
BETA PHOTO: Rightmost face of the Waterfall Cliff area -- From...

Comments on Degeneration Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 7, 2016
By Paul Rezucha
From: Alameda
Sep 29, 2004

This is a wonder climb and perfect for a beginner leader who wants to learn to place trad gear. The 40' of crack takes small to medium cams and other gear too. The crux up high is well protected by the two bolts and requires thin face moves for 8' or so. A very fun route!
By Bruce Morris
From: Belmont, CA
Feb 23, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

That's why Don Simmons and I put it up: to give beginning leaders a chance to practice placing trad camming gear at Castle Rock. Wondered if anyone else noticed out intent? Also, beware Vultus and Vulta, the terrible twin baby buzzards, who live in the caves below the crux. They often patrol the descent gully in the spring and will launch 'projectile vomit' in your face if provoked!
By Bruce Morris
From: Belmont, CA
Jul 17, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

When I set a TR on this route two weeks ago (6/05) I started rapping down until I reached the cave beneath the face crux. There they were, again! The terrible twins, Vultus and Vulta! A mother turkey vulture has again had a pair of chics in the cave and she definitely does not like climbers! She made an ugly noise like she was going to throw up on me (ie. 'projectile vomit'), so I rapped down quickly and pulled the line. Beware! The twins will be patrolling the descent gully for at least another two months and mom is mean and ugly!
By Blitzo
Sep 12, 2006

Kind of light for the grade. The Vulture was cool!
By Daniel Trugman
From: La Jolla, CA
Oct 2, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

WAY easier than "The Falls". Really fun though, great route to work on some slab skills.

Finger size cams are useful for the cool dihedral start.
By Phil McAllister
Mar 11, 2012

The crack is awesome for learning to place nuts - it just sucks up the pro.
By NorCalNomad
From: San Francisco
May 23, 2012

The bolts at the top, 1 spins, one you can kinda move...but seems decent.
By Logan Swartz
From: Davis, CA
Jul 7, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

If you don't want to lead the 10a sport finish you can go left after the dihedral ends into the gully to finish it. Probably keeps the entire climb at 5.7

Yes one of the anchor bolts spins and probably should be replaced.

Also at the end of the dihedral there is an old 1/4" bolt to the left that probably should be removed.
By rafael
From: Berkeley, CA
Dec 5, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

5.9+? no way, I give it 5.6 maaaaaybe 5.7. The crack is all really low angle, def 5.6 except the one lieback blulge thingie, which may or may not be 5.7, its super juggy in that section, so im feeling 5.6. Go try a 5.7 in yosemite then see if this thing feels even close to that hard...
By Lukas Wiborg
From: Mountain View, CA
Jul 7, 2016

As already said this climb is great for trad practice for newer leaders. Takes larger sizes of nuts very well (7-13 black diamond nuts) and some small ones near the bottom. Takes larger cams at the top (BD 3 possibly higher).

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