Degeneration 5.10a
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Don Simmons and Bruce Morris |
| Submitted By: | Aron Quiter on Aug 20, 2002 |
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Sallie at the top of the 5.6 dihedral. Moving lef...
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Description To get to this climb: this is the furthest right climb on the rightside of the waterfall area, and the initial dihedral is usually the first thing seen when reaching this climbing area. This route involves a large simple dihedral for the first forty feet, leading to the first bolt, which is located about 35 or so feet off the ground.
After the first bolt, traverse right up a slabby face with an interesting crux located right before the second bolt.
Protection 3 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor. You can set up a toprope by walking across the tops of the rocks from the right side (looking up) near the gully. Some larger pro (2" - 3 1/2") might prove useful in the beginning section of the route.
Sallie, high up about to attempt the crux moves.
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Brett Volway Working his way up
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Bottom section is an easy 5.6 splitter crack perfe...
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By scotticusmaximus
From: Felton, CA
Feb 5, 2013
CONDITION REPORT | I climbed this route again today and noticed the anchor bolt on the right seems to be more exposed than on previous times I have climbed here. The hanger has always spun but it almost seems like the bolt has been working its way slowly out of the rock. Luckily the bolt on the left is solid though! |
By Paul Rezucha
From: Alameda
Sep 29, 2004
| This is a wonder climb and perfect for a beginner leader who wants to learn to place trad gear. The 40' of crack takes small to medium cams and other gear too. The crux up high is well protected by the two bolts and requires thin face moves for 8' or so. A very fun route! |
By Bruce Morris
From: Belmont, CA
Feb 23, 2005
rating: 5.10a
| That's why Don Simmons and I put it up: to give beginning leaders a chance to practice placing trad camming gear at Castle Rock. Wondered if anyone else noticed out intent? Also, beware Vultus and Vulta, the terrible twin baby buzzards, who live in the caves below the crux. They often patrol the descent gully in the spring and will launch 'projectile vomit' in your face if provoked! |
By Bruce Morris
From: Belmont, CA
Jul 17, 2005
rating: 5.10a
| When I set a TR on this route two weeks ago (6/05) I started rapping down until I reached the cave beneath the face crux. There they were, again! The terrible twins, Vultus and Vulta! A mother turkey vulture has again had a pair of chics in the cave and she definitely does not like climbers! She made an ugly noise like she was going to throw up on me (ie. 'projectile vomit'), so I rapped down quickly and pulled the line. Beware! The twins will be patrolling the descent gully for at least another two months and mom is mean and ugly! |
By Blitzo
Sep 12, 2006
| Kind of light for the grade. The Vulture was cool! |
By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Oct 2, 2009
rating: 5.9
| WAY easier than "The Falls". Really fun though, great route to work on some slab skills.
Finger size cams are useful for the cool dihedral start. |
By Phil McAllister
Mar 11, 2012
| The crack is awesome for learning to place nuts - it just sucks up the pro. |
By NorCalNomad
From: San Francisco
May 23, 2012
| The bolts at the top, 1 spins, one you can kinda move...but seems decent. |
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