deGaulle's Nose aid route
|861 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 75'|
|Consensus: ||A1-2 [details]|
|FA: ||Dave Bell and Byron Nelson|
|Submitted By: ||Allen Hill on Aug 30, 2007|
Dave's route nails out the slab then under the nos...
This route is a classic study in Dave Bellism.
Start up and left on the face that faces the road. Nail across the slab and wrap your way under the "nose" and continue traversing till you reach a pod. From here climb up a very thin crack. This will go free but will be a scary hard lead. Check it out.
Descend off the back.
RPs, knife blades, a hook or two.
|Photos of deGaulle's Nose aid route Slideshow
Looking back across the traverse under the lip.
Looking up the thin crack before I set my next lad...
Looking down from the thin section.
NOTE* though I...
The bolts and old webbing.
My rope got snagged, so I had to rap down and jug ...
Eddie re-aiding to clean the route during the gold...
Eddie cleaning the final vertical section. DG's No...
Eddie rapping off the nose.
|Comments on deGaulle's Nose aid route
|By Jason Kaplan|
From: Glenwood ,Co
Jun 8, 2008
I solo aided this yesterday and it was pretty fun, it goes clean just incase anyone wondered about that so no need for nails or a hammer.
The gear for the most part I felt pretty good about.
If you want no piece by piece beta read no further.
The gear on the first part I mostly used stoppers untill I was near the end, most were directional so you had to be careful how you weighted them or you could place another nut pulling the opposite direction so it was multi-directional and tie them together so you didn't have to worry at all.
I did it with a single set of stoppers and didn't use them for pro untill the thin crack at the end to the top. I didn't know I had my off set aliens untill I was done so I didn't use them either but they made cleaning the begining section easier once I realized I had them. I could imagine this might be c1 even with the right rack.
Anyway there is some cam placments once you near the end of the first section getting to the corner a red tcu and a .75 camalot did the trick, then a #3 camalot (rounding the corner under the lip to a #4(left for pro) then another #3 (left something equivilent to a #3-3.5 for gear non camalot variety I think it was a grey flex cam? it's my partners)and saved my #3 for later to another .75 to a blue alien to a yellow lowe ball then another #3 and then a #5 then some more stoppers up the thin crack to the top to another #3 and the #5 again twice more. 2 bolts on top which makes back cleaning easier if your solo.
I replaced the old slings that were on top but the only webbing I had was a little bit short (although probly safe it would be ideal if it were replaced with something a little longer by the next ascentionist) there is a rap ring and a rapid link also on the slings.