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 ADVANCED
Mill Creek Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big Dreams  
Bulge to Groove 
Chimney 
Deflator-Mouse 
Dihedral 
Dirty Boulevard, The 
Face 
Face (left of Freeway) 
Freeway 
Groper 
Honey Pot 
Jug Haul 
Lou Reed (5.12/AO) 
Pit of Despair, The 
Roof Rack 
Scantily Trad 
Sweet Petite 

Deflator-Mouse 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Diana Rogers & Harald Harb, October 2013
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 157
Submitted By: Diana Rogers on Oct 24, 2013
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BETA PHOTO: Deflator-Mouse starts on the left side of the bloc...

Description 

Start about 20 feet to the right of Freeway on the left side of a large, slightly-detached block. Pull up onto the top of the block. The crux is to get from this stance over the bulge until you are established in the dihedral. Stem up to another stance below the small arete, place some pro, reach up onto the face left of the arete to clip a bolt, then choose your path to the top: swing left onto the face for an easier out, stay right in the dihedral for a little more work. There's an easy stance to reach the two-bolt anchor.

Rap from here, or hop up on the large, sunny ledge and take Upper Freeway to its bolted anchor (gear required).

Richard Wright has also TR'd the left-wall crack/arete variation just after the crux. That version would use the three bolts we added but would need more and/or different gear. It's quite a bit harder than the stem version.


Location 

This is twenty feet right of Freeway. Follow cairns up to the base of Freeway from Mill Creek Rd. Deflator-Mouse starts on the right end of the same, waist-high ledge as the large, right-facing dihedral of Freeway.


Protection 

Three bolts, two near the lower crux, one below the anchors. Two-bolt anchor with rap rings. You'll need a small assortment of thin to finger to hand-size cams.
If you are concerned about on-sighting at this grade, we recommend stick clipping the second bolt. Make sure you clip that draw before you try to get over the bulge.



Photos of Deflator-Mouse Slideshow Add Photo
Diana cleaning up DM prior to RP burn.
Diana cleaning up DM prior to RP burn.
Harald launching crux #2.
Harald launching crux #2.
Diana still cleaning up the last bit.
Diana still cleaning up the last bit.
Harald at crux #1.
Harald at crux #1.
Harald getting the work done for the rest of us.
Harald getting the work done for the rest of us.
At the chains.
At the chains.
Comments on Deflator-Mouse Add Comment
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By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Oct 25, 2013
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c

Super. Deflator-Mouse is much more steep and continuous than the photo might suggest. I thought the climbing was cool and pumpy. This terrific line is definitely worth a burn if you are at the MCC. Unfortunately, the lame photographer that caught Harald's lead missed Diana' RP burn entirely.

By Harald Harb
From: Dumont
Oct 26, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c PG13

Beta intense after 2nd clip. Clip the 2nd hanger on the way to standing on the big block. The gear, "cam" that is placed, is for your back-up if you miss clipping the 2nd bolt, so please leave it in place.