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 ADVANCED
Bluff Street Cracks
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Deface Crack T 
Freeze Dried Bat T 
Inspired and Perspired T 
Joseph Meeks T 
Pig Lloyd T 
Red Warrior T 
Wide Boy T 

Deface Crack 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: J. Visser, M. Kindred
Page Views: 2,410
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Mar 4, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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BETA PHOTO: Deface Crack, 5.10a
Sometimes closed in spring for raptor nesting

Description 

A fun splitter hand crack on a not-quite vertical face with a wide section near the top.

The lower part of the crack is great hands, then it opens up wide for five or six feet.

However, there are some face features and irregularities on the edge of the wide section that make it easier, and the left corner crack is close enough at this point to get a good hand and foot jam. (In other words, offwidth technique not required.)

After the wide section the crack closes down again to hands for another five feet or so to the anchor ledge.


Location 

The crack is located on a west/southwest face with a hand crack (Red Warrior) in the corner to the left. Wide Boy is in the same alcove.

Looking down, 500 W street in Saint George is just slightly west. The belay area is large, flat, and well-used so it should be hard to miss.


Protection 

Mostly hand-sized gear with optional larger. I placed the following Camalot C4s: (1) .75, (3) 1, (3) 2, (1) 3. There is at least one spot where a number 4 would fit but I chose to motor on past the spot without stopping.

The anchor is above a ledge and consists of 3 bolts and hangers with (smallish) chain from two hangers joined with a single quicklink, and webbing from the 3rd hanger joined to the chains' quicklink with another quicklink.



Photos of Deface Crack Slideshow Add Photo
This is where I learned to lead the splitters.
This is where I learned to lead the splitters.
Starting up the stimulating Deface Crack in 2000...
Starting up the stimulating Deface Crack in 2000.....
From the top of Deface
From the top of Deface
I nice fist over fist
I nice fist over fist
Having the corner for an option at the top is nice, one can mix it up.
Having the corner for an option at the top is nice...
Comments on Deface Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tyler King
From: Salt Lake, UT
Feb 8, 2009

The offwidth takes a nice armbar, and by time your feet hit the off-width section you have some crimpers and then the thin hand crack. 1st offwidth section I've ever done that didn't amount to alot of groveling and cursing (coincidentally it was also my 1st offwidth on a sandstone crack). It was actually enjoyable, believe it or not!

And yes, the corner crack is available if you absolutely need it...

By Jared R
Feb 5, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I just TRed this route and it was prefect hands the entire way. In the depths of the offwidth there are still good hand jams. The crux is the last 8 feet or so where the crack slims down to thin hands. It's a great route and it's easier than The Red Warrior and Pig Lloyd which are both rated 5.9+.
My partner Ryan lead it with nothing larger than a #3 Camalot.
Super fun route!

By Hendo
From: Denver, CO
Mar 26, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I LOVED this route. It seems like the perfect intro to Indian Creek cracks. Because it's shorter and varies in width slightly, you don't have to have 7 sets #1 BD cams.

Definitely get on this if you're confident in crack climbing skills. Near perfect hands the whole way.

The offwidth is actually surprisingly easy. Not a true offwidth. Don't be intimidated by it.

By nieder
From: Santa Clara, UT
Jul 19, 2014

Found and retrieved a stuck cam- PM me if you lost it and can describe the piece and where it was stuck and I'll get it back to you!