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Deers Leap (Windham)

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dihedral T 
Georges Route T,TR 
Hungarys Burnt (a.k.a. the Dogs Face Crack) T,TR 
Unknown T,TR 
Unkown T,TR 
Walk on the Wild Side T,TR 
Rest Day:
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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Deers Leap (Windham)  


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Location: 42.7682, -71.2975 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,886
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jeremy A on Nov 29, 2012
Forecast:
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Description 

The history of climbing at Deers' Leap, Windham NH.
Deers* leap is an old cliff of very old and weathered granite, many of its cracks are well rounded and in some spots the rock is loose, so be careful. There are several seperate ledges that are all part of the same line of rock that forms the ridge that is the leap. Any original climbing done at the leap was done on the main face by the pond. Over the years these ledges have received many visitors but most of these were picnicers or beer drinkers. Not much climbing development went on here for many years untill recently(since 1977).

A guide to Deers Leap. Andy Kling 1984

Unfotunately the climbs here have degraded over the past years due to little traffic. Many of the routes have been re-claimed by lichen. Some or most of the boulder problems will need some cleanup. But if you can see past the lichen and have motivation to do some easy scrubbing it will be well worth it as all the routes present great positions and climbing on interesting horizontal features.

This area is broken up in to 3 of the major walls. The Main Face, Andy's Cliff (Middle Cliff), Porcupine Cliff.

  • **CAUTION, THIS AREA IS KNOWN TO HAVE MANY TICKS ALL SEASON (DEER TICKS AS WELL). USE PRECAUTION, BUG SPRAY, LONG PANTS etc.***

Getting There 

Follow 111A West via exit 3 off 93. Take Marblehead Rd to Deer Run. After Deer Run look for a dirt road on the right (Woodbury Rd) with Multiple camp signs. Follow this to a parking area on the left. Park and hike in. Stay right at the fork brings you to the Main Face overlooking the now dried up pond. Staying left at the fork will lead you to the smaller walls.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.5 miles from here

6 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',2],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Deers Leap (Windham):
Dihedral   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 65'   
Georges Route   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 60'   
Browse More Classics in Deers Leap (Windham)

Featured Route For Deers Leap (Windham)

Dihedral 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a  NH : Deers Leap (Windham)
DIHEDRAL( 5.5+ )-Follow the lower cracks of Georges route to their end then go up past a birch tree to bulge then over.(F.A. A.Kling summer '79)(Variation on DIHEDRAL)(5.8-)-Face directly around corner of bulge....[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of Deers Leap (Windham) Slideshow Add Photo
Main Face
Main Face
Welcoming sign at the trail head.
Welcoming sign at the trail head.
Overview layout. Various Boulders or small walls are hidden off a side trail. Cut left at a stone wall and head down.  <br />
Overview layout. Various Boulders or small walls a...
4
4
Andy's Cliff
Andy's Cliff
Boulder problem
Boulder problem
A few bouldering routes on this.
A few bouldering routes on this.
2
2
35 ft cliff
35 ft cliff
Porcupine Cliff
Porcupine Cliff
Top Rope Sport
Top Rope Sport
Boulder
Boulder
I hiked in and took some pictures today. Looks like a great place. Lots of spots to climb.
I hiked in and took some pictures today. Looks lik...
main Face
main Face
Bolted over hang
Bolted over hang
1
1
One of the smaller crags.
One of the smaller crags.
3
3
Another pretty face.
Another pretty face.
4.1
4.1

Comments on Deers Leap (Windham) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jeremy A
From: NH
Nov 29, 2012
The original guide book can be found per this link.
mediafire.com/view/?av7pnm1qr3...
By Just Jesse
From: Methuen, MA
Dec 20, 2012
Nice... I'm glad someone finally put Deers Leap up on MP. Thanks Jeremy. It may be helpful to note that decades of high school partying have left the area below the main cliff awash in broken glass. Bring a tarp for your rope (and if you're super awesome, a trash bag to pack some of it out).
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Apr 17, 2013
I was interested in finding out what happened to the pond over the past few years and after a few queries I came across this great write-up on Simpson Pond (now known as Moeckel Pond) and the mill that was sat at the south tip.

moeckelpond.com/A%20Brief%20Hi...

So the pdf mentions: "After becoming widowed, Gertrude C. Moeckel transferred property to Gertrude E. Moeckel Linton and James R. Linton in 1963. Upon the death of Gertrude Linton (2006), the property passed from her trust to a triumvirate of owners in the hope that it could be used for the greater good. Unfortuantely, an unrepaired crack in the dam has forced the draining of the mill pond, leaving a muddy meadow unable to sustain the wildlife that once dwelt there. Efforts are underway to restore the dam and the pond and make it available to the people of Windham."

I hope the town finds a way to restore the pond... it was a nice little spot.

By Christopher C
Jun 15, 2013
Very dirty walls. We found 2 nice climbs and did a bit of cleaning. Lots of broken glass. Bring long lines for the top rope anchors.
By HaileyC
Sep 18, 2013
me and my brother free climbed the main face of the leap. it was awesome. dont do it if you have any doubt in yourself.
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Sep 20, 2013
Hi Hailey, by "free climbed", do you mean "free soloed"? If you're confused these terms, it suggests to me that you are a beginner, and therefore should not be soloing. It's best to hook up with an experienced climber (or a guide) and learn the tricks of the trade. There have been many local crags that have been closed because locals have thought themselves "climbers" and tried to scale the cliffs. When bad things happen to these "climbers", it gives the rest of us climbers (those of us who climb safely and have been trained to do so) a bad name and jeopardizes access to some of our favorite spots.

If you'd like a referral to a local guide service, just PM me, and I'd be happy to point you to some reputable guides.
By Evan Vassil
From: Nashua, New Hampshire
Aug 31, 2014
Awesome little spot, went here last weekend with some friends and cleaned a few boulder routes. Might go back tomorrow and take some pics.