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 ADVANCED
Deer Leap

Select Route:
Black Wonton, The T 
Bulge (AKA - The Flying Groundhog), The T,TR 
Celibacy T 
Center Crack T 
Monkey Direct T 
Monkey, The T 
Off Width T 
Pit and the Pendulum T 
Simple and Independent Minds T 
Standard Route T 
Rest Day:
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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Deer Leap  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 43.6652, -72.833 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 9,842
Administrators: Luc, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Mike Baetz on Mar 21, 2008  with updates from Max Forbes
Forecast:
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BETA PHOTO: Nick Goldsmith leading Celibacy 5.9+ For a comp...

Description 

This cliff is home to about 25-30 climbs; some high quality trad climbs, mostly on the left side, and some mixed climbs (i.e. bolts and gear) of varying quality on the right. The cliff faces south and can be quite windy since it sits on the ridge upon which the long trail runs. Several climbs can be top roped and a 60m rope is sufficient for all the climbs.

I've included only the best climbs on the left side for now.

Getting There 

Dear Leap is located in Killington on Rte. 4 near Pico Ski resort. The cliff sits above The Inn on the Long Trail, and parking is across the road.

The approach takes about 15 minutes, and requires some scrambling. The quickest route is not easy to find, but ascends a short slab (below and to the left are a couple shorter climbs that need some more traffic to clean up), then finds a way through some boulders above.

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.7 miles from here

10 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',2],['5.10',2],['5.11',1],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Deer Leap:
Standard Route   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Off Width   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Center Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
The Monkey   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Pit and the Pendulum   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Celibacy   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Monkey Direct   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Classics in Deer Leap

Featured Route For Deer Leap
This route follows up past 6 bolts to a bolted anc...

Celibacy 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a  VT : Deer Leap
Follow steep face up past 3 bolts through dirty easier climbing to a 4 bolt, move right up through steeper corner onto slab and traverse left above large roof past 2 more bolts to anchors. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in VT

Photos of Deer Leap Slideshow Add Photo
From the parking area across the road .... Inn of ...
From the parking area across the road .... Inn of ...
The cliff, well known routes are on the "whit...
The cliff, well known routes are on the "whit...

Comments on Deer Leap Add Comment
Show which comments
By Frank T
Apr 24, 2009
I found this doing a google search of this area. The page is a bit hard to use but offers good info. deersleapvt.com/
By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
Jun 1, 2011
The website for the area seems to have disappeared.
By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
Jan 17, 2012
As Nick has mentioned on the main page for Vermont, the new website for this area can be found at deerleapclimbing.com
By Daniel Kuzio
From: Plainfield, VT
Jul 19, 2013
Does anyone know if any of the routes here can be accessed from above and top roped? Thanks!
By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
Apr 10, 2014
Daniel - Everything on the main face left side can be toproped - there are several sets of bolted anchors, where each anchor can be used for multiple climbs. The shortest path to get to the anchors is to take the direct trail up to the main cliff, and continue around the left side. Many of the lower climbs can also be toproped although if I recall there is often rope rubbing on rock for those (although nothing too serious).
By John Richardson
From: Greenfield, Ma
May 11, 2014
Howdy All,

Does anyone have a pdf copy (or perhaps you could scan a print out that you currently have) of the guidebook?

I'd like to post this on my site and link it to this page so that there is a copy available.

If you do I'd be stoked if you sent it to me at...
johnrichardson@beerandclimbing.com

Thanks!

John
By Ian Dibbs
Sep 11, 2014
The climbers trail to cliff is very rough, slippery, dangerous and can't be recommended. The established hiking trail is longer, slower, but a safe, less vegetation destructive, tranquil hike up. Takes a gentle 1/2 hour hike.
Once at the "top" of the hiking trail on the big rocky bulge, the climbs don't start there but down a level (looking down at 10:00) where there are some trees. Once at the correct spot (anchors unseen just over the edge of the cliff)... a trail to the climbs base is found on the right side (when looking over the cliff) which looks rough but actually isn't too bad.