BETA PHOTO: Nick Goldsmith leading Celibacy 5.9+ For a comp...
This cliff is home to about 25-30 climbs; some high quality trad climbs, mostly on the left side, and some mixed climbs (i.e. bolts and gear) of varying quality on the right. The cliff faces south and can be quite windy since it sits on the ridge upon which the long trail runs. Several climbs can be top roped and a 60m rope is sufficient for all the climbs.
I've included only the best climbs on the left side for now.
Dear Leap is located in Killington on Rte. 4 near Pico Ski resort. The cliff sits above The Inn on the Long Trail, and parking is across the road.
The approach takes about 15 minutes, and requires some scrambling. The quickest route is not easy to find, but ascends a short slab (below and to the left are a couple shorter climbs that need some more traffic to clean up), then finds a way through some boulders above.
Weather station 6.7 miles from here
10 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Deer Leap
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Deer Leap
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Deer Leap:
Off Width 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
The Monkey 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Celibacy 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Featured Route For Deer Leap
Simple and Independent Minds 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
C2- PG13 VT
: Deer Leap
At the right side of the cave @ Deer Leap's Right End is a wildly overhanging crack with a fixed RURP (broken cable) at its bottom. The crack starts incipient and widens to off-hands, overhanging roughly 10-15' in 50 vertical feet. The first section climbs as two stout boulder problems without a rest between, while the wide crack in the second half taps different technique. FA: 5.12 C2- [8/17/2010]. It should go fully free: go get it!...[more] Browse More Classics in VT
From the parking area across the road .... Inn of ...
The cliff, well known routes are on the "whit...
By Matt Wilson
From: Vermont, USA
Jan 17, 2012
As Nick has mentioned on the main page for Vermont, the new website for this area can be found at deerleapclimbing.com
By Daniel Kuzio
From: Plainfield, VT
Jul 19, 2013
Does anyone know if any of the routes here can be accessed from above and top roped? Thanks!
By Matt Wilson
From: Vermont, USA
Apr 10, 2014
Daniel - Everything on the main face left side can be toproped - there are several sets of bolted anchors, where each anchor can be used for multiple climbs. The shortest path to get to the anchors is to take the direct trail up to the main cliff, and continue around the left side. Many of the lower climbs can also be toproped although if I recall there is often rope rubbing on rock for those (although nothing too serious).
By Ian Dibbs
Sep 11, 2014
The climbers trail to cliff is very rough, slippery, dangerous and can't be recommended. The established hiking trail is longer, slower, but a safe, less vegetation destructive, tranquil hike up. Takes a gentle 1/2 hour hike.
Once at the "top" of the hiking trail on the big rocky bulge, the climbs don't start there but down a level (looking down at 10:00) where there are some trees. Once at the correct spot (anchors unseen just over the edge of the cliff)... a trail to the climbs base is found on the right side (when looking over the cliff) which looks rough but actually isn't too bad.