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Mescalito
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Deep Space 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type: Trad, 8 pitches, 800', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Joe Herbst and Larry Hamilton, May 1975
Page Views: 2,288
Submitted By: L. Hamilton on Mar 4, 2004
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Joe Herbst starts the wide stemming section on Pit...

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Description 

Air temperatures rose well past 100 degrees on the day of the first ascent, but the chimney stayed cool -- hence the route's name. Offbeat and varied, moderate climbing. See Urioste guide for a photo showing the approximate location.

Begin in a deep chimney on the NE side of Mescalito. After two pitches of easy climbing, the chimney widens.Pitch 3 -- Stem the wide chimney to reach a jam crack on the right wall, pass a small roof and belay (5.9).Pitch 4 -- Face climbing leads up and left to a shelf. Belay below an offwidth crack (5.9). An old piton, predating the first ascent, used to exist on this pitch.Pitch 5 -- The offwidth crack.Easier climbing continues for hundreds of feet, eventually moving left into a long hand-sized crack. One final pitch achieves the summit of Mescalito.


Protection 

No fixed anchors. The FA party took one set each of hexes and stoppers.



Photos of Deep Space Slideshow Add Photo
Larry Hamilton on the first ascent of Deep Space.  This well-shaded route was done on a hot day in May, 1975 (photo by Joe Herbst).
Larry Hamilton on the first ascent of Deep Space. ...
Routes on east face of Mescalito.
BETA PHOTO: Routes on east face of Mescalito.
Don't slip. Deep Space March 2014.  <br /> <br />Photo: Kyle Willis
Don't slip. Deep Space March 2014.

Photo: Kyle W...
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By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Dec 7, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

This is a really great route. Larry D'Angelo and I did this route a month or so ago and I have to hand it to Joe and Larry H. for the first ascent. This route is 'bold' in a great way. The piton is still there, looking rather mangy, but luckily, there's a nice cam placement next to it. Again, great route!

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 6, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

This is a neat and challenging route for those looking for a more challenging way to the summit of Mescalito. The 5.9 stemming chimney is very serious and the runout is a long one.

Bring gear to a #4 camalot, as I recall, and a couple of small to medium tricams for the odd pocket.

By Tricamus
From: Culver City, CA
Apr 24, 2012

We did the chimney pitch differently. Deeper in the chimney there is a great (although sandy and somewhat brittle) hand crack in the back left. Jamming and stemming will take you to the roof where you can transfer sides to work your way out of the long horizontal roof. Pro is pretty good, so it skips the "R" rating of the conventional route but adds technical difficulty (5.10+). However, a heady PG13 traverse out of the chimney is dependent on small gear and added rope drag.

Overall, really fun pitch for the chimney lovers out there. Sorry, no photos to add. I was too busy catching my breath.