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Deep Puddle Dynamics
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Deep Puddle Arete 
Deep Puddle Dynamics 

Deep Puddle Dynamics 

Hueco: V9+ Font: 7C

   
Type:  Boulder, Alpine, 20'
Original:  Hueco: V9+ Font: 7C [details]
FA: Dave Graham
Season: Ealry June, One of the First to Melt Out.
Page Views: 3,174
Submitted By: tcamillieri on Jun 30, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Me working Deep Puddle Dynamics. Amazing boulder p...

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  • Description 

    Perfect slopers on a gently overhanging face. An absolute classic, perhaps the best 9 in the Park! Start on the UNDERCLINGS! Confirmed with DG.

    Beta. Start on the underclings. Negotiate a match on the square cut sloper and reach up to a suprisingly good (but small) crimp. Left foot up on a small point, toe hook underneath the roof and hit the first sloper left-handed. Reset the toe hook higher and bump to a better sloper. Match. Release Toe hook, right foot on square sloper and go up to another sloper. Left foot on the large sloper feature out left. Reach up to a decent gaston. Match feet on the square cut sloper. Right foot on a loose block (yes in wobbles) either bicycle with your left underneath (or use the higher block if you don't like the loose block) and reach up to a decent crimp/pinch. Left drop knee hard on the second sloper and reach a slopey gaston above the roof almost parallel to the your left hand. Bump to good holds. Move left to a good hemhock. You can get a knee bar here and shake. Pull up to the second lip and traverse the boulder to the left. Pumpy.

    Four stars for perfect landing, great movement, good holds, and aesthetics of the line itself.

    Location 

    Head "up canyon" (but moderately downhill) from Tommy's Arete hopping talus for about 100 yards.

    Protection 

    2-3 pads, spotter(s).


    Photos of Deep Puddle Dynamics Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Hitting the first good hold.
    Hitting the first good hold.
    Rock Climbing Photo: The move off the tiny crimp.
    The move off the tiny crimp.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Me working the crux of DP, nice having tall spotte...
    Me working the crux of DP, nice having tall spotte...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Such a beautiful boulder problem!!
    Such a beautiful boulder problem!!

    Comments on Deep Puddle Dynamics Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By MauryB
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 20, 2010

    Anyone know what the prow to the left of Puddle is?
    By Monty
    Administrator
    From: Golden, CO
    Jul 2, 2010

    Don't remember what its called, but it goes at V5 and it's super fun.
    By MauryB
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 5, 2010

    I second the "super fun" conclusion, although going from the sit-start felt harder than V5 to me. Perhaps I was just burned at the end of the day, but I would have thought more like V6 or V7.
    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    Aug 10, 2010

    "Move left to a good hemhock" ??? Maybe you mean right?

    Re: the arete, I have heard 6 as well. Looks excellent!
    By tcamillieri
    From: Denver
    Sep 14, 2010

    The V6 is called Chad's Bulge. Gross.
    By Stephen Nance
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 15, 2011

    Heard that a large foot hold pulled on this thing.... It was the loose foot block (but large) that most people used up in the roof area on the right side.... Makes DPD harder???
    By tcamillieri
    From: Denver
    Aug 23, 2011

    Peter,
    The beta that I suggested includes a left hemhock on the nose of the top sloper to allow your right hand to come up and match. I did not mean right. I have, however, since repeated the problem and think the beta I gave above is not the best.
    By Cameron Epley
    Jul 2, 2016

    I went to try Deep Puddle Dynamics today, after a year, to find that the flat right hand crimp was completely broken. The climb still goes but feels a lot harder.... Very unfortunate! I loved that rock climb!

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