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 ADVANCED
South Face Lower Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dedicated To The Game T 
Down and Out T 
Flight 714 S 
Lakota S 
Little Creatures T 
Little Fingers T 
Not-so Pro T 
One Diet Coke for Fat Juice S 
Tintin Does Doughnuts S 
Warm Up T 
Warm Up Too T 

Dedicated To The Game 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Nate & Pam Postma circa '91
Page Views: 519
Submitted By: John Gunnels on Oct 16, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: Follow the roofs...

Voluntary Closure Every June and Seasonal Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb through the inital layback flake and face moves to the first of three roofs. The first 11a roof prepares you for the very awkward 11c second roof. Obvious moves to the right lead to the final 9+ roof. This route is quite unique to the Tower.

Location 

Take the "Tintin/Lakota" gully approach. Upon reaching the main face, traverse left up the talus. The route begins immediatly under the big roof.

Protection 

EXCELLENT PROTECTION! Quickdraws, Stoppers and Camalots to #3.

Description 

Climb through the inital layback flake and face moves to the first of three roofs. The first 11a roof prepares you for the very awkward 11c second roof. Obvious moves to the right lead to the final 9+ roof. This route is quite unique to the Tower.

Location 

Take the "Tintin/Lakota" gully approach. Upon reaching the main face, traverse left up the talus just past "bench rock". The route begins immediatly under the big roof.

Protection 

Quickdraws, Stoppers and Camalots to #3.


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By Sean Nelb
From: Grand Junction, CO
Jun 9, 2011

This route is probably the most varied on the tower, and is definitely the best route on the SW shoulder. Excellent bolted face climbing leads to a roof, with a short, overhanging, off-fingers crack above that. The first roof is supposedly 5.11a, but it doesn't feel any easier than the second roof to me. A single 70m rope will you get you back to the ground, but rope drag makes simply lowering off a bad idea.