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 ADVANCED
Sabbatical Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bon Voyage 
De-Birth 
Decreation 
Finger Fun 
Genetics 
Immaculate Conception 
Induced Labor 
Minute Man 
Miscarriage 
My Son is a Perv! 
Reincarnation 
Sabbatical 36 
Toss, The 
Unknown D.F. Route 
Unknown Flake 
Womb, The 

Decreation 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 105'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b [details]
FA: P. Kingsbury, Alf. spring '09
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 563
Submitted By: TomKingsbury on May 21, 2009
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Above the squeeze crux on the F.A. of 'Decreation'

Description 

The route goes from a 24" crack down to 1/4" at the top. All sizes covered from squeeze to stacks down to tight fingers up high. The fingers is the crux, although exiting the squeeze is also hard.


Location 

a few systems right of 'pregnant woman grazing' and just left of 'Birth'


Protection 

green alien through blue big bro. fixed pin protecting the exit from the squeeze. clip and lower up top.



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By TomKingsbury
May 21, 2009

The fixed pin was installed after two lead attempts with out it....

The gear is pretty much non-existent due to the flairing nature of the crack. A ground fall would pretty much be guaranteed if one botched the transition from the squeeze with out the pin.

-Patrick