Deckers Rock Climbing
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|Location: ||39.25424, -105.22677 View Map Incorrect?
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|Administrators: ||Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide), Emily Roeben|
|Submitted By: ||John McNamee on Feb 17, 2006|
Half Dome Self belay with USHBA in Deckers.
This area includes domes and crags along side Jefferson County Road 97 close to Deckers. In the South Platte guidebooks it is referred to as the Malay Archipelago region.
Often the biggest challenge of climbing in this area is located the start of the climb. Over time, many of the routes have changed, bolts have been removed and added, and removed, etc. Allow plenty of time for scouting and finding the routes. Carefully scope routes before launching up them in case their description and protection comments have changed.
The most popular areas are: Atlantis Slab
This is yet another set of beautiful, rounded, granite domes in the South Platte. These domes have 1-2 pitch slab routes with mostly spartan, bolt protection. South facing. Murphy's Dome South Face
Nice one pitch climbs, mostly friction, with new bolts and 2 bolt anchors. South facing.
Deckers, is a small place with a general store and a fly fishing shop. The General Store dates back to the 1890's and was built by Stephen Decker. It is also a popular region for fly-fishing. Deckers received national attention during the June 2002 Hayman forest fire.
From Denver, go W on Hwy 285, go S on Foxton Rd just past Conifer, take a L at the T to South Platte (96), towards Deckers, drive 3 miles. Park in a legal spot. You may have to walk along the road a bit to the trailheads. There are 2 drainages to hike:
The S drainage is better for the S face of Java Dome and Bali Domes.
The N drainage is better for Atlantis Dome (on your L/S-facing) and W face of Java Dome. Approaches take 10-20 minutes. Map of Deckers
Weather station 3.2 miles from here
85 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',31],['1 Star',42],['Bomb',4]
Classic Climbing Routes in Deckers
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Deckers
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Deckers:
D&D 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, 2 pitches, 170' Jazz Dome
Featured Route For Deckers
Platte Magic 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
: South Platte
: ... : North Face
Yet another terrific route on a great wall. This route offers very nice climbing that flirts with a black water streak that has exquisite rock.This route starts just behind the large evergreen tree. It is the 5th bolted route from the left, and the 6th route from the left if you include the 'Way Jingus' toprope.Begin with relatively easy slabbing to the first bolt. Some fun sidepull flakes get you up to the 2nd and third bolts. Kind of cruxy at the 3rd bolt and eases off to sustained clim...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
BETA PHOTO: Left side half dome. Tin Can Alley left route. Ne...
One of these slabs. It being on Jazz Dome early ni...
BETA PHOTO: South side of Half Dome.
Half Dome. Photo by Blitzo.
Morgan leading a route to the right of Tin Can All...
BETA PHOTO: Half Dome Nice new anchors. At least 4 that I hav...
Boone on his first South Platte climb (and second ...
Half Dome south side. Me getting spanked on this ...
The old South Platte Hotel. Photo by Blitzo.
By Jeff Bryan
From: Cortez, co
Jul 24, 2008
I agree with A.C. high overhead low return. I have been to both Atlantis and Java. From the Beta pics of Murphy's Dome I am not really sure where that is. Is this the formation just above the parking lot with multiple bolted lines. Which do have some new anchors. I loaned my H. book and I seem to remember a different rock name.
By Jeff Bryan
From: Cortez, co
Jul 25, 2008
Tried to climb this unknown rock today and got spanked. The first route
I left a beaner at the second bolt. It just seemed to hard for me, I fell twice. The second route I attempted had a big jug, but it felt like it was going to pull off. I got above it to the left and everything I grabbed pulled apart, so I bagged it and we went to our 3rd route which my buddy was half way up when we got rained off. This dome has tons of rock that is just rotten as it comes. The 3rd route we tried was pure friction and not as rotten but was friable friction. I am not sure if it is worth a second visit. The middle trad line looks ok, but with storms moving in we decided against it.
By John McMullen
From: El Portal, CA
Apr 25, 2009
This entire area was slated to be at the bottom of a new Dam and Reservoir back when we were climbing there (thus the names). It was practically a fact ... and fortunately didn't happen.
Since climbers at the time didn't communicate ... miss information was the norm.