One of these slabs. It being on Jazz Dome early ni...
This area includes domes and crags along side Jefferson County Road 97 close to Deckers. In the South Platte guidebooks it is referred to as the Malay Archipelago region.
Often the biggest challenge of climbing in this area is located the start of the climb. Over time, many of the routes have changed, bolts have been removed and added, and removed, etc. Allow plenty of time for scouting and finding the routes. Carefully scope routes before launching up them in case their description and protection comments have changed.
The most popular areas are:
Atlantis Dome This is yet another set of beautiful, rounded, granite domes in the South Platte. These domes have 1-2 pitch slab routes with mostly spartan, bolt protection. South facing.
Deckers, is a small place with a general store and a fly fishing shop. The General Store dates back to the 1890's and was built by Stephen Decker. It is also a popular region for fly-fishing. Deckers received national attention during the June 2002 Hayman forest fire.
From Denver, go W on Hwy 285, go S on Foxton Rd just past Conifer, take a L at the T to South Platte (96), towards Deckers, drive 3 miles. Park in a legal spot. You may have to walk along the road a bit to the trailheads. There are 2 drainages to hike:
The S drainage is better for the S face of Java Dome and Bali Domes.
The N drainage is better for Atlantis Dome (on your L/S-facing) and W face of Java Dome. Approaches take 10-20 minutes.
Missing the Dike (aka Two Dikes for Dinner) is located on Atlantis Slab. As you approach the slab, find an area that has several bolted lines ascending from a flat area near a trench in the rock. Scramble into the trench for the belay. Locate a left-angling line of old 1/4" bolts near a black dike (the first line of bolts directly right of a newer climb). Climb onto the slab from the trench and follow the line of bolts. The dike will become obvious and useful until it ends at the last 1/4" bolt ...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
I agree with A.C. high overhead low return. I have been to both Atlantis and Java. From the Beta pics of Murphy's Dome I am not really sure where that is. Is this the formation just above the parking lot with multiple bolted lines. Which do have some new anchors. I loaned my H. book and I seem to remember a different rock name.
Tried to climb this unknown rock today and got spanked. The first route I left a beaner at the second bolt. It just seemed to hard for me, I fell twice. The second route I attempted had a big jug, but it felt like it was going to pull off. I got above it to the left and everything I grabbed pulled apart, so I bagged it and we went to our 3rd route which my buddy was half way up when we got rained off. This dome has tons of rock that is just rotten as it comes. The 3rd route we tried was pure friction and not as rotten but was friable friction. I am not sure if it is worth a second visit. The middle trad line looks ok, but with storms moving in we decided against it.