Deceptive 5.10c/d PG13
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10c/d [details] |
| FA: | probably Ralph Schimdt and Sal Sepson |
| Submitted By: | John W. Knoernschild on Jun 23, 2008 |
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BETA PHOTO: Curving Crack (8), Deceptive (9), Out There (10)
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Description Climb a few feet right of "Curving Crack". Move up on small crimps to rest ledge and overhang. Move through overhang on nice jug and layback to top.
Location Between "Curving Crack" and "Out There"
Protection The pro is is non-existent until you reach the overhang (you could place pro to the left into curving crack). From there is it protectable with small wires and cams.
Leading "Deceptive".
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Leading "Deceptive".
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Leading "Deceptive".
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Top out! Second crux happens where my feet are in ...
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By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Jul 2, 2008
| not sure on the fa on this one .....perhaps the infamous Ralph schimdt and Sal sepson |
By Trad Nanny
Jun 29, 2009
rating: 5.10+ R
| I got a directional in a few feet up and then not another piece until the rest spot. I gave it "R" because of the crimpy solo to the rest. Good moves all the way with another distinct crux at the top protected with some ball nuts. Probably not climbed enough. "Out There" (5.9+) to the right of this is also very good and often over-looked. |
By Michael Sullivan
From: Madison, WI
Nov 4, 2011
rating: 5.10c/d PG13
| Does anyone know where the proper location of this route's finish is? Does it finish to the right of Curving Crack at the same ledge? Or does it finish to the right and above Curving Crack as Trad Ninja can be seen doing in photos of the route? Could these two variations perhaps explain the difference in suggested rating from 10c to 10+? |
By Trad Nanny
Nov 5, 2011
rating: 5.10+ R
| I would say more is better, so up and right higher is proper. |
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