|949 page views|
BETA PHOTO: "Deceptive Corner".
Photo by Blitzo.
Start about thirty feet to the right of Death on the Nile (5.10a). Climb the left slanting crack to a ledge. You can belay here if you wish. Surmount the corner, and climb to the top. I've always found the crux to be the move at the top.
standard rack to 3"
BETA PHOTO: Deceptive Corner
|Comments on Deceptive Corner
|By Ryan Avery|
Jan 23, 2005
I think the left slanting crack at the start took 3 cams in the .75ish range. If you want to top rope this one you need to leave a cam in the lower crack for a directional. The crux is topping out off a layback move using the hand crack for additional puchase. Be sure to climb the face to the left of the corner and not the actual corner which is probably 5.10+.
|By Brian Hench|
From: Costa Mesa, CA
May 12, 2008
rating: 5.7 PG13
Place a Red Camalot in the corner and put a double sling on it. It won't keep you from hitting the ledge but it will keep you from falling off the ledge. There are places to place pro on the face.
Apr 26, 2012
It looks as if there are at least two starts that will get you to the ledge. Climb a left leaning crack out right on gear (Mentioned in original route description, 5.7) or big edge face moves with two bolts (shown in Blitzo's beta photo, somewhat harder than 5.7). In either case, putting in a directional where you pull onto the ledge is a good idea to protect the second from swinging out left if they come off. Once on the ledge there are two finishes. Climb the overhanging corner crack directly (5.10+) or climb the slab left of the corner (pro in the corner to keep you from a big fall, easy to crux exit crack move 5.7).
| || |Deceptive Corner variations
Submitted By: BCramer on Apr 26, 2012