Deception  5.7

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Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 200 feet Consensus:  5.7 [details] FA:  Dick Wiliams and Pete Geiser 1964 Submitted By:  coryred797 on May 2, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Taken from the guide book

Start at the base of a low-angle open book, just left of a low angle arete, 50 feet left of Gold Flakes.

P1: 5.4G, 50 ft. Climb face and the open book past a broken, dirty area to a grassy ledge. Just above the ledge is a wide crack at a small overhang (large cams for belay).

P2: 5.6PG,70ft. Diagonal up right and climb straight up the clean face to a small ledge on the left with a pine tree belay/rap station.

P3: 5.7PG, 70 ft. Step right and move up very cautiously to a horribly rotten loose band of red rock on the NSGTLedge. Move up again (though you must be crazy if you continue on from here) to and up a blocky corner past more horribly loose rock. If you make it this far you don't need any more info other than to continue past overhang and up face to the top.

Just a heads up, I climbed this mid-day and it was extremely wet on P2, not to mention all the red ants.

Location 

The Near Trapps, 50 feet left of gold flakes, about a 10 min walk in from the road.

Protection 

Standard Gunks rack + a few larger cams for the first belay station. If you don't feel like bringing up large cams you can just find a smaller crack off to the left.