Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Nautilus
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Little on the Ugly Side 
Automotive Supply House 
Baalbek 
Baldwin's Chimney 
Banana Hammock 
Bat Guano Crack (mistakenly aka B-G Crack) 
Bat Heaven 
Bombs Away aka B52 
Bug Squad 
Candlestick 
Cannonball 
Captain Nemo 
Central Scrutinizer, The 
Cool Hand Luke 
Cornelius 
Crankenstein 
Cupcake 
Deception 
Deep Throat 
Drunken Redneck Rappellers 
Dual 
Easy Jam 
Ejector-Rejector 
Elevator 
Escalator 
Etude For The Left Hand 
Etude For The Right Hand 
Failure to Communicate 
Father 1 
Final Cut, The 
Finally 
Flare Thee Well 
Flying Buttress 
Folded, Spindled, and Mutilated 
Friday the 13th 
Friday the 13th, Part 2 
Ghost Dance 
Grand Traverse, The 
Gravity's Rainbow 
H & H Grunt 
Hairlip 
Hamburger Crack 
Handjacker 
Harder Than Your Husband 
Hemoglobin 
Hesitation Blues 
Horticulture 
Humper 
In The Dark 
In the Groove 
Jim Jam 
Joke 
Knee Grinder 
Knothole 
Left Torpedo Tube 
Lower Progressive 
Lower Slot and Upper Slot 
Lower Slot Left 
Lucky You 
Max Factor 
MaxiLash 
Middle Parallel Space 
Mother 1 
Nemo's Nemesis 
Nemo's Toad 
Nitrogen Narcosis 
Octagon 
October Light 
Old Eyeful 
Outrider 
Par Four 
Petite Tarsalation 
Piton Perch 
Popcorn Farce 
Postman, The 
Pretty 
Republic, The 
Right Parallel Space 
Right Torpedo Tube 
Right Winger 
Sitdown Seam 
Slab Stealer 
Slat 
Slick and Superficial 
Slit 
Slut 
Soak'em In Cider 
Stand and Deliver 
Stinkzig 
Straight 4 Ward 
Sun Up To Sundown 
Tarsalation 
Ted's Trot 
Tempest 
Thin Lizzy 
Thunderbolt 
TTL 
TTR 
Twinkle Toes 
Upper Progressive 
Upper Slot Left 
Vault 
Vedajuicer, The 
Vulture Direct 
Wall-To-Wall 
War Zone 
Where the Sidewalk Ends 
Whipping Boy 
Unsorted Routes:

Deception 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,366
Submitted By: Brian Scoggins on Jul 10, 2003
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (30)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Diane cruising up the lower section of Deception. ...

Description 

Just across the way from Friday the 13th is this deceiving line. From a distance, it looks like a simple off-width. Get closer, it looks like hands. Once you're in it, its awkward face moves (in the crack) for about 20 feet until you hit a finger crack. Follow said finger crack up to a ledge, then farther to rap bolts.


Protection 

Stoppers and cams up to yellow camalot.



Photos of Deception Slideshow Add Photo
BETA PHOTO
Comments on Deception Add Comment
Show which comments
By Joe Collins
Jul 11, 2003

The description above describes the first pitch only, which I'd put in the 5.8 range (a fun lead for those who aren't willing to give Friday the 13th a go). Deception is best done by linking the 2 pitches to the top. The 5.9 comes in a lieback corner just above the rap rings mentioned above. The lieback eventually opens to a short squeeze chimney. Most people will want a #4 camalot for this part.

We weren't able to easily reach the Middle Parallel Space or War Zone anchors from the top of this pitch. To desced, we scrambled over to the anchors on the other side of the formation at the top of Nemo.

By Michael Kullman
Oct 20, 2003

Fun route that packs a nice variety of climbing, harder than it looks (although most of it is 5.7/5.8). The top-out to get to the rap anchors is kind of spooky for moderate leaders (a couple of stout 5.8 slab moves with no pro and a potentially nasty fall). Be sure to go straight up to the very top of the formation and set up an anchor in a small crack to belay the second up this short section (avoids a potential pendulum).

By Dan Mottinger
Jul 3, 2007

Not too bad to link up the two pitches into one, extending the bolt anchor sling genrously. In addition to the #4 Camalot where the the second pitch goes wide, I placed a #4.5 Camalot to protect the final wide section.

By Jason Albino
From: San Francisco, CA
Jul 18, 2013

We did this on our first trip The Voo in July 2013.

For a quick end-of-day wrap up after Middle Parallel Space, doing P1 and lowering off is a great option. If you have larger hands-feet, the jams are locker and the gear options are plentiful.

If you do want to continue with P2, it will link with a 60m rope with P1 easily given good slingage, but you will increase your outing time significantly. P2 is a fun, steep jaunt with a committing offwidth finish, but I'm not sure it warrants the subsequent descent adventure.

As with the earlier comment, the supposed 5.8 unprotectable face climb after P2 to the summit anchors looked really sketchy to us with obvious groundfall potential, so we avoided this.

To get off the formation, from the top of P2 we gently downclimbed into the slot across from the aforementioned "5.8" face, and then headed up-and-left to the opposite side of the overall formation. After a low 5th class downclimb move there, we found rap anchors on the right that lowered off us near the Nemo climb with one 60m rope.