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North Face
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Dancing Feet T 
Deception T 
Deception Direct T 
Harvey's Wallbangers Left T 
Harvey's Wallbangers, Center T 
Harvey's Wallbangers, Right T 
Knapsack Crack T 
Manic Depressive Direct T 
Reds Delight T 
Spam Sandwich T 
Wave Rider T 

Deception Direct 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c PG13

Type:  Trad, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 1,206
Submitted By: Salamanizer on Oct 11, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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BETA PHOTO: Deception Direct goes straight up the obvious line...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


Start on the regular start of Deception but continue strait up the hand crack instead of moving out left. Climb up till you run out of rope and belay. Pitch two goes past a short (15ft)thin section that can be protected by RPs. Belay at the large flake and ledge then continue up the regular route or go over the bulges to the right for a little more fun.


multiple thin nuts or cams to 1.5"

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By GMBurns
Jul 21, 2008

Had a good time on this. The run-out section at the top can be well-protected from below with larger gear. Still, if you fall here then be prepared for a nasty fall into the right-facing corner. A fun route worth doing.
By Josh Cameron
From: Moab, Colorado
Jul 17, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

How do you say extremely thin?
By Michael Onofre
Oct 25, 2015

The 5.9 face portion of this climb, although short, is super spicy and likely will result in a nasty fall even if any of the mini poor placements hold. For someone shorter like myself, the face was basically a smear fest attempted to get to one of the two places that had "holds." I was able to get in three nuts, BD stoppers size 5 and below and felt confident in none.

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