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 ADVANCED
Three Peaks
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Big Toe S 
Canal of Guilt T 
Canned T,TR 
Cattle Trail Wall 
Contemplation 
Decappaccino Left T 
Decappaccino Right T 
Digits  
Fly Away S 
Jawbreaker T,TR 
judo chop! 
Lap Crack 
Modelo  T,TR 
Morning Dove T 
Patella Juice T 
Roundhouse 
Shaped Wall 
Sharp Side of the Gully, The 
Split Pea 
Split Pea Sit Start 
Split Slab 
Thornbush T 
Thunderbird TR 
Warm-Up 
white belt  
Wind and Weiners S 

Decappaccino Right 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Steve Lamoreaux
Page Views: 810
Submitted By: Stevel on Jun 3, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

Another fun, short route. Start on the left of the large chockstone. Pull the bulge, climb the crack/slab, and exit right at the top of the chockstone. Pull jugs to the top. No protection going from the top of the chockstone to the top of the route. Definitely needs a bolt or 2. Next time i'm in the area I'll try to throw some in. Unless someone wants to beat me to it.

No rap anchors. Use boulders/crack on top to 2nd, and clean.

Location 

On the west side of the three peaks mound, next to the gangsta tag of the headless guy.

See Patella Juice beta photo.

Protection 

You can girth hitch a sling at the bottom where the large boulder meets the wall.

Medium to large pro.


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By lance stine
Dec 10, 2010

This was a hilarious lead. stevel took me to the route and selected the gear to lead on. He grabbed a random nut. "Any size will do", he said. He then clipped a quickdraw to it and sent me up the route. The nut fit and I sent the route. It felt like "I shouldn't be doing this climb with only a nut" on the way up and felt like "I shouldn't have done this with only a nut" on the ground, but it was a good time.