Begin in chimney and commence up right face through broken crack system and trend left around blocky bulge to base of dihedral (handcrack). Traverse left onto face, make a challenging clip, head for the arete (crux), and follow it to the top.
Nice exposure and beautiful view. (Crux - inspect and strategize thoroughly, it's all there.) Location
Far right side of Sandstonia Wall, past Shady Lady (5.7) alcove, around corner, through slot, past Witches of Bangor (10c), begins in corner chimney.
Anchors. 60m rope.
Start of crux traverse. BETA PHOTO:
What a great climb
bolt 3 (i think) on the route. great climb all ar...
By Shawn Heath Administrator From: Forchheim, Germany Aug 31, 2010 rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Super sweet climb with a ledge to rest on and ponder the crux. After you figure out how to do the crux, you're rewarded with an amazing view. This is what climbing outdoors is all about!
By Gif Zafred From: Pittsburgh, PA May 6, 2011
Awesome climb. The crux traverse is thin compared to the rest of the climb. The top section is sustained and fun
By Maitreya Sriram Jul 25, 2011
Super technical traverse for the crux. Be careful about taking a whip before the 3rd bolt as there's a detached buttress right behind you.
By Javier L From: Asheville, NC Sep 24, 2011
Not knowing any better, I went up diagonally on the small crimp instead of traversing all the way to the arete (at the crux). I think this adds a grade but is also probably less interesting.
By Cragmama From: North Carolina Dec 12, 2011
Crux felt really thin for the grade, but nice stance just before it to hang out at and unlock the puzzle.
By Matt Baer Apr 14, 2012 rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fun Chimney climbing at the beginning then beautiful face climbing with amazing views!
By Alec32 From: Brooklyn, NY May 29, 2013
Amazing position; thoughtful moves; great climb. Felt hard for 10b, but only that one crux move.
By TheClimbingChad From: Rockville, Maryland Jul 15, 2013
View from the top!