Decameron, The 5.10b
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10 [details] |
| FA: | Horst, McCallister, Ganote, Hintz (2004) |
| Submitted By: | DaveB on Jun 16, 2008 |
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BETA PHOTO: Start of crux traverse.
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Description Begin in chimney and commence up right face through broken crack system and trend left around blocky bulge to base of dihedral (handcrack). Traverse left onto face, make a challenging clip, head for the arete (crux), and follow it to the top.
Nice exposure and beautiful view.
(Crux - inspect and strategize thoroughly, it's all there.)
Location Far right side of Sandstonia Wall, past Shady Lady (5.7) alcove, around corner, through slot, past Witches of Bangor (10c), begins in corner chimney.
Protection 9 bolts.
Anchors.
60m rope.
| Comments on Decameron, The |
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By MPuser10840
Administrator
From: Erlangen, Germany
Aug 31, 2010
rating: 5.10b
| Super sweet climb with a ledge to rest on and ponder the crux. After you figure out how to do the crux, you're rewarded with an amazing view. This is what climbing outdoors is all about! |
By Gif Zafred
From: Pittsburgh, PA
May 6, 2011
| Awesome climb. The crux traverse is thin compared to the rest of the climb. The top section is sustained and fun |
By Maitreya Sriram
Jul 25, 2011
| Super technical traverse for the crux. Be careful about taking a whip before the 3rd bolt as there's a detached buttress right behind you. |
By Javier L
From: Asheville, NC
Sep 24, 2011
| Not knowing any better, I went up diagonally on the small crimp instead of traversing all the way to the arete (at the crux). I think this adds a grade but is also probably less interesting. |
By Cragmama
From: North Carolina
Dec 12, 2011
| Crux felt really thin for the grade, but nice stance just before it to hang out at and unlock the puzzle. |
By Matt Baer
Apr 14, 2012
rating: 5.10b
| Fun Chimney climbing at the beginning then beautiful face climbing with amazing views! |
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