|294 page views|
Best High Rappel Beginner Climb-keeps any leader interested.
Pitch 1: Just right of the large right-facing dihedral start by oak trees. Climb thin corner (5.4) to a narrow shelf then traverse left 10' Climb up small chimney to tiny ledge, step back onto face (Crux, 5.5) clip old bolt and continue up crack to belay ledge with Fixed/Glued Piton.
Pitch 2: Step up slab from belay and follow easy cracks to the summit slabs.
EDIT: Follow the EASY crack system that starts above small slab on the upper-left of belay, dihedral to the right is a .10a variation (Presidente).
Start at the base next to Oak trees right of a large right-facing dihedral. Scramble off back side to the Descent Gully.
Stoppers, Small to large cams to #4 C4. 20' Sling to wrap around massive horn/protrusion for second belay. Anchors on top, 3 Bolts w/ two hangers.
|By William Nelson|
From: Cave Creek, AZ
Jun 2, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
Just lead this yesterday and was warned from a local that it isn't 5.5 and and that it had a couple 5.10 moves. The first pitch is exciting and it's at least a 5.8/9. The second pitch is 5.5. I threw a hex in the first crack and used a BD # 4 and forced a #5 in the hand crack after clipping the bolt on the traverse out of the chimney.