Debut 5.5
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.5 [details] |
| FA: | Rusty Baille, David Lovejoy, Jack Hauck 1970 |
| Submitted By: | Tim Heid on Sep 19, 2011 |
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Looking down at the dihedral from the top of the s...
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Description Fantastic climbing and a great intro climb to Granite Mountain. Debut begins about 10 feet to the left of a large pine on the Pine Tree Ledge.
Pitch 1: Follow the shallow cracks up to a small roof. Pull the roof to the right on good jugs. Then follow a double crack system up to a gully to the right of a few bushes. 5.4 150'
Pitch 2: The money pitch and a classic for the grade. Step across the gully to the right and make a few mantel moves up to a big ledge. Continue up the hand to finger crack on the right. Then face climb towards a huge roof; pull the roof on the right and continue up a gorgeous dihedral that turns into clean liebacking to a big ledge. 5.5 150'
Descent: Walk left from the ledge and follow a faint trail back to the Pine Tree Ledge.
Location Starts on the left side of the Pine Tree Ledge. Look for the 2 discontinuous cracks that lead to a small roof just to the right of a black water streak.
Protection Standard Rack to 3".
Nas enjoying the liebacking up the final pitch.
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BETA PHOTO: A shot looking up at the sweet 2nd pitch from wher...
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By Tim Heid
From: Tempe, Az
Sep 19, 2011
| Instead of stopping pitch 1 in the gully, I recommend that you continue up another 15' past the mantel moves to a great ledge. The ledge is very comfortable, the belay anchor is easy and you have a better view for both the follower coming up the first pitch and the leader moving up the second pitch. |
By Micah Kurtz
Jan 3, 2012
| It seemed best to me to climb this in three pitches. I made the first belay after the overhangs just above some offwidths, and the second at the huge ledge just after the blocky climbing. The first and third pitch were awesome. I am learning trad, I think this was my 6th trad lead and it was all straight forward climbing. The last pitch is the most intimidating because its almost vertical but the gear is there and very nice holds the whole way. Make sure you do this climb! |
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