M3-4 Mod. Snow
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|Type: ||Trad, Mixed, Snow, Alpine, 5 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III|
|Consensus: ||M3-4 [details]|
|FA: ||???? First Winter Ascent: Gil Weiss, Scotty Nelson, March 2010|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||late winter-early spring|
|Submitted By: ||Gil Weiss on Mar 19, 2010|
BETA PHOTO: South Face of Arrowhead. Deborah is the couloir g...
This is the obvious couloir splitting the south face of Arrowhead. It is similar to Dreamweaver on Mt. Meeker in its legnth and difficulty. Either climb the West Gully out of Black Lake, or hike up and around to the South Face of Arrowhead and head straight for the base of the couloir. There could be some ice in spring with proper conditions. Expect mostly snow climbing with 4-5 mixed steps/constrictions, ranging from M2-4. About 5 pitches with a 60 meter rope, but it's best to simulclimb. The last part of the couloir splits into a left and right exit option. Take the right to keep the difficulty low, or go for the left option which is a steep rock chimney. Scramble the remaining ridge to the summit of Arrowhead...because summits matter! See the rock climbing section for Arrowhead to obtain descent info. Classic!
South Face of Arrowhead in Glacier Gorge
Single rack, slings, ice tools, crampons.
A view of the line on Deborah center right on Arro...