||Trad, Mixed, Alpine, 5 pitches, 1000', Grade III
|Original: ||M3-4 Mod. Snow [details]|
|FA: ||???? First Winter Ascent: Gil Weiss, Scotty Nelson, March 2010|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||late winter-early spring|
|Page Views: ||4,154|
|Submitted By: ||Gil Weiss on Mar 19, 2010|
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A view of the line on Deborah center right on Arro...
This is the obvious couloir splitting the south face of Arrowhead. It is similar to Dreamweaver
on Mt. Meeker in its legnth and difficulty.
Either climb the West Gully
out of Black Lake, or hike up and around to the South Face of Arrowhead and head straight for the base of the couloir. There could be some ice in spring with proper conditions. Expect mostly snow climbing with 4-5 mixed steps/constrictions, ranging from M2-4. This is about 5 pitches with a 60 meter rope, but it's best to simulclimb. The last part of the couloir splits into a left and right exit option. Take the right to keep the difficulty low, or go for the left option which is a steep rock chimney. Scramble the remaining ridge to the summit of Arrowhead...because summits matter!
See the rock climbing section for Arrowhead to obtain descent info. Classic!
It is on the South face of Arrowhead in Glacier Gorge.
A single rack, slings, ice tools, and crampons.
Skiing the "3rd class" descent route, cl...
BETA PHOTO: South Face of Arrowhead. Deborah is the couloir g...
By Ryan Marsters
May 15, 2016
Yep, kinda screwed up today - we glanced at the beta photo but didn't research or see the comment. We assumed it was the gully right of the scramble ledge and bailed to a different couloir after assuming this one wasn't in. Should've kept going as you can't see Deborah until the base.