Does anyone know any history on leading this route? The first 20 feet don't seem well protected (no pro?) but it seems like you can protect the crux fairly decently.
By Kris Gorny Administrator Aug 4, 2008 rating: 5.8+5b16VI-15HVS 4c PG13
You can start on the wall to the right of the arete and traverse back onto it at the small roof. Thin cracks take some small pro (Aliens). Pretty stout lead with dubious pro.
By Isaac Therneau From: Rochester, MN Aug 17, 2008 rating: 5.85b16VI-15HVS 4c PG13
One of the best 5.8's I've ever done and one that will demand your attention on lead.
By Tradoholic Jun 10, 2010 rating: 5.85b16VI-15HVS 4c X
The book says "Pure climbing deficient in protection". It couldn't be more correct. No pro until you pull onto the ledge and very dubious pro in small flaring crack afterwards. On-sighting I found myself doing tricky moves onto the ledge with nothing but the ground to catch me.
I also TR'd a line that hits the ledge and then ascends the face straight up. 5.11ish moves with some cool squeezing and slapping.
An endless supply of poor protected lower sections along that wall. Treachery, Letchery, Debauchery, lower part of Rogers Roof, they all are grunt moves on mostly featureless smooth quartzite. But a whole lot of fun to climb most routes in the Horse Ramparts for sure.