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 ADVANCED
North End
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Argonaut , The TR 
Awakening Spirits T 
Bat Attack T,S 
Boogie Till ya Puke T 
ByPass T 
Death Wish T 
Enduro Man Rides Again T 
Filet-O-Fish T 
Indian Head Direct T 
indian toe T 
Joy Loader T 
Juggerhead T 
Juggernaut T 
Lark's Tongue T 
Middle Road S 
Mighty Mouse T 
Nevermore T 
Nevermore (The other one) T 
Nicotine T,S 
Nutsweat T 
Rastafari T 
Reckless Abandon T 
Recommendation, The S 
Shadowdance T 
Spice T 
Superman's Dead T 
Unknown T 
Vascular Disaster T 
Visual Splendor T 
War Games T,S 
Windigo T 

Death Wish 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 125'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Carlton Ramm
Page Views: 171
Submitted By: Neil Rankin on May 8, 2014

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Description 

Death Wish probably has the best crack climbing at Moore's Wall, and it has some of the best exposure as well. It takes the route in between Nutsweat and Bat Attack. Start the same as Nutsweat, but instead of traversing left out of the dihedral, stay with it. Then head right under an overhang and up into a left-angling hand crack. Follow the hand crack through dizzying exposure and into a couple of slot chimneys before finally traversing up and left on easy ground aiming for a bushy collection of trees. Getting established in the upper slot is the crux.

The first ascent of Death Wash was climbed ground-up in 1979 and was likely protected with only stoppers and hexes. A really proud effort.

Note: To descend, downclimb about 15-20 feet straight down to the Nutsweat anchor and rappel. This downclimb is steep and exposed, but is easy 5th class climbing. A belay would be highly recommended.

Protection 

Lots of nuts, cams to a #3.5 Friend.


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