Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Lucerne Valley
Select Route:
Death Wish T 

Death Wish 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Jon Behrmann & Donovan Bagley
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,339
Submitted By: Jon Behrmann on Sep 12, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [2 people like this page.]
Chilling at the top. My first FA!!!!!!

Description 

The Crux is right in the middle of the climb. The best part of this climb is the start. Their are no foot holds at all. What you think is rock in the first 4 feet is really solid looking sand. You have to depend on the crack at first. The bad part is their was few holds that you cant trust but fun climb regardless. I would climb this again for sure!!!


Location 

The route is on the north side of the road. I have the GPS for the area marked. I also added a few pics showing the route. We walked off on the north east section of the cliffs. I also added a picture of what your view would be from the base of the route.


Protection 

Take a good variety. A few big, a few small, and a few in-between. Take long slings. Their is no fixed gear on this route. Cams and hexes protect about the same.



Photos of Death Wish Slideshow Add Photo
view from the base of the climb
view from the base of the climb
Nice pic of our gear
Nice pic of our gear
Bomb Proof
Bomb Proof
Great FA
Great FA
RIght before the assent
RIght before the assent
Dont trust every hand hold
Dont trust every hand hold
View From Top
View From Top
Silhouette at morning sunrise
Silhouette at morning sunrise
Donovan
Donovan
Fun times
Fun times
Donovan on TR
Donovan on TR
Watch out for the small cactus
Watch out for the small cactus
Succsess
Succsess
Showing the Route from the road
Showing the Route from the road
Last Crux Move
Last Crux Move
Donovan at base of route
Donovan at base of route
One last look at the route
One last look at the route
Comments on Death Wish Add Comment
Show which comments
By Donovan
From: West Jordan, Utah
Sep 14, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Pretty dirty climb, considering it was an FA. There are a few mantles required on this route. Pick your hand placement carefully as there are some old (abandoned) birds nests nestled on top of them. They consist of brush and cactus. I'm still trying to get one of the needles out of my hand over a week later. Fun route, but sandstone scares me. Take caution as this is a very new route and you may knock something loose during your accent.

By bheller
From: SL UT
Sep 27, 2010

Congratulations on your first FA. I really think this is great- you two have obviously contracted the climbing virus! Shouldn't Donovan also be credited with the FA? Also, the climb appears to be about 40 ft tall? Be safe, continue to seek out new adventures and new routes, and please look back on this post in the future and be slightly embarrassed by a few of these photos;)

By user id
Sep 27, 2010

I'm just going to go ahead and down grade this one now.....

By Jon Behrmann
From: Herriman
Oct 8, 2010

Thanks for the advice. We have caught the virus and continue to explore. Thanks for pointing out that Donovan should have the FA as well. Still learning the rules. Congrats Donovan for your first FA.