The Crux is right in the middle of the climb. The best part of this climb is the start. Their are no foot holds at all. What you think is rock in the first 4 feet is really solid looking sand. You have to depend on the crack at first. The bad part is their was few holds that you cant trust but fun climb regardless. I would climb this again for sure!!!
The route is on the north side of the road. I have the GPS for the area marked. I also added a few pics showing the route. We walked off on the north east section of the cliffs. I also added a picture of what your view would be from the base of the route.
Take a good variety. A few big, a few small, and a few in-between. Take long slings. Their is no fixed gear on this route. Cams and hexes protect about the same.
From: West Jordan, Utah
Sep 14, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pretty dirty climb, considering it was an FA. There are a few mantles required on this route. Pick your hand placement carefully as there are some old (abandoned) birds nests nestled on top of them. They consist of brush and cactus. I'm still trying to get one of the needles out of my hand over a week later. Fun route, but sandstone scares me. Take caution as this is a very new route and you may knock something loose during your accent.
From: SL UT
Sep 27, 2010
Congratulations on your first FA. I really think this is great- you two have obviously contracted the climbing virus! Shouldn't Donovan also be credited with the FA? Also, the climb appears to be about 40 ft tall? Be safe, continue to seek out new adventures and new routes, and please look back on this post in the future and be slightly embarrassed by a few of these photos;)
|By user id|
Sep 27, 2010
I'm just going to go ahead and down grade this one now.....
|By Jon Behrmann|
Oct 8, 2010
Thanks for the advice. We have caught the virus and continue to explore. Thanks for pointing out that Donovan should have the FA as well. Still learning the rules. Congrats Donovan for your first FA.