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Graveside Pillar
Routes Sorted
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Death to Smootchie S 
Fallout S 

Death to Smootchie 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Chris Robertson
Page Views: 431
Submitted By: ZachBradford on May 8, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Green- Death to Smootchie 5.12a Red- Fallout 5.11c

Description 

Bring a stick clip. The first bolt is 15 feet off the ground.

Route starts with a tough technical slab for the first 20+ feet. Slab leads directly into an overhanging bulge crux.

Clipping the bolt on the bulge is tricky with an exciting fall potential so don't blow the clip.

Crux moves are very well protected and the bulge offers some amazing movement.

Location 

Route is 10 feet left of fallout.

The formation is located on a pillar down from the slabs. The easiest way to get to the pillar is to walk up to the trail until you come to the large boulder(on the right) head directly left and up the hill until you come to the cliff wall. Follow cliff east for 200 yards until you run directly in to pillar.

Protection 

4 bolts to 2 bolt anchor


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By Kalon
From: St. George, Utah
Apr 11, 2014

If you don't have a stick clip, you can stem up the wide gap to the left and reach over to clip the first one. I highly suggest you get the first clip in, it's 15 feet up and it's super balancy slab with feet that are kinda techy.
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