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 ADVANCED
Primitive Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Barbarian TR 
Cam Shaft T,TR 
Death Scream T,TR 
Evolution TR 
Failing Fingers T,TR 
Hot Flash T,TR 
Huff and Puff TR 
Missing Link TR 
Old World Monkey TR 
Primitive Man T,TR 

Death Scream 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 542
Submitted By: Pete Hunt on Aug 12, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Heading into the crux - '09.

Description 

Straight up the center of the face on progressively harder moves until reaching the giant roof. Pull the roof (crux/strenuous) using pretty big holds and possibly a mantle, but don't pump out since the feet are very bad. Hard to make this one look good.

Location 

Right up the center of the face, then up and left through the roof.

Protection 

Standard TR set up on a vertical crack ~10' back from the edge.

Leading would be strenuous but placements are probably there. I don't think it would take anything larger than 1".


Photos of Death Scream Slideshow Add Photo
Crux section.
Crux section.
Some more beta (which worked)
Some more beta (which worked)

Comments on Death Scream Add Comment
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By Doug Lintz
From: Kearney, NE
Sep 13, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Not a very good route IMO. Surmounting the roof is a grovelly hump and mantle with no footholds.

This was our last route of the day so maybe I was just tired but this felt more like an 5.11 to me.
By Pete Hunt
Mar 4, 2012

I agree that the climbing isn't elegant, but I still enjoy this one. I think most would agree that it is tough for the rating. When I'm the first to contribute a route I generally just put the established (guidebook) rating.
By Doug Lintz
From: Kearney, NE
Mar 4, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Pete, I do that too when posting new (to the site) routes.

I think the heel hook is key to getting your hands in the right spot, but releasing the hook and establishing yourself above the roof....ugh.
By Pete Hunt
Mar 19, 2012

Yeah, it's brutal! I have yet to see it be done gracefully.