Death Scream 5.10c/d
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10d [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | Pete Hunt on Aug 12, 2009 |
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Heading into the crux - '09.
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Description Dance up the center of the face and then launch into the giant roof (crux.) Pull it using decent holds and likely the use of a mantle, but don't pump out since the feet are very limited and poor. It is very desperate and strenuous gaining the roof. This is a great route to try if you're looking to blow your body out for the day.
Location Right up the center of the face and weakness in the roof.
Protection Top rope. An excellent vertical crack at the top of the cliff makes for good anchoring (eats up cams from 0.5 - 3 Camalot or passive pro.) This crack is approximately 10 feet back from the edge.
Maybe best left as a top rope problem, but feel free to look for placements for leading. I don't think it would take anything larger than 1".
Crux section.
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Some more beta (which worked)
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By Doug Lintz
From: Kearney, NE
Sep 13, 2011
rating: 5.11a
| Not a very good route IMO. Surmounting the roof is a grovelly hump and mantle with no footholds.
This was our last route of the day so maybe I was just tired but this felt more like an 5.11 to me. |
By Pete Hunt
Mar 4, 2012
| I agree that the climbing isn't elegant, but I enjoy the grunting required to send this thing. And I think most would agree that it is tough for the rating. When I'm the first to contribute a route I generally just put the established (guidebook) rating. |
By Doug Lintz
From: Kearney, NE
Mar 4, 2012
rating: 5.11a
| Pete, I do that too when posting new (to the site) routes.
I think the heel hook is key to getting your hands in the right spot, but releasing the hook and establishing yourself above the roof....ugh. |
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