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Stately Pleasure Dome
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Death Crack T 
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Eunuch T 
Footnote T 
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Sweet Nothings T 
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Turning Japanese T 
West Country T 

Death Crack 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Vern Clevenger, August 1975
Page Views: 1,271
Submitted By: Greg DeMatteo on Sep 21, 2008

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Matt Beebe on Death Crack. Photo by Chris Falkenst...

Description 

Obvious left leaning flake/crack up to a small roof with a wide section for the last few body lengths. Decent hands quickly become big hands on very steep terrain. An excellent and striking feature that will challenge pretty much anyone. A great toprope as well.

Location 

Continue a couple hundred feet up the far left slab on Stately Pleasure past Dark Angel. Look for the only extremely steep hand sized left leaning flake/crack.

Protection 

Doubles from #1 - #5 (C4) Camalot. The old style #5 Camalot will not fit in the upper crack. Can be easily set up as a top rope though you will probably want to put a cam or two in the crack to avoid massive swing.


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By Christina Freschl
From: Berkeley, California
Jul 7, 2012

This is an intimating route with a grainy start. I started laybacking the route, but quickly discovered that straight-in jamming (hands to fists) worked well to get through the first part. Then pull through flakes to get to the offwidth. I used a #5 camalot to protect the top section. Chains at the top help keep the rack light (of course there are the 2-#3s, 1 #4, 2 #5s, and 1 #6 (didn't need) that I brought:)