Death Crack 5.11+
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11+ [details] |
| FA: | Vern Clevenger, August 1975 |
| Submitted By: | Greg DeMatteo on Sep 21, 2008 |
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Description Obvious left leaning flake/crack up to a small roof with a wide section for the last few body lengths. Decent hands quickly become big hands on very steep terrain. An excellent and striking feature that will challenge pretty much anyone. A great toprope as well.
Location Continue a couple hundred feet up the far left slab on Stately Pleasure past Dark Angel. Look for the only extremely steep hand sized left leaning flake/crack.
Protection Doubles from #1 - #4 Camalot.
By Christina Freschl
From: Berkeley, California
Jul 7, 2012
| This is an intimating route with a grainy start. I started laybacking the route, but quickly discovered that straight-in jamming (hands to fists) worked well to get through the first part. Then pull through flakes to get to the offwidth. I used a #5 camalot to protect the top section. Chains at the top help keep the rack light (of course there are the 2-#3s, 1 #4, 2 #5s, and 1 #6 (didn't need) that I brought:) |
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