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Death Before Decaf S 
Fast Moving Train S 
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Grinch, The S 
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Saddam's Mom S 
When the Cat's Away S 

Death Before Decaf 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Don Welsh, January 1991
Season: Fall, Winter, Spring
Page Views: 694
Submitted By: mike moore on Nov 8, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Clara!

Climbing in Red Rocks after heavy rain can permanently damage the rock! MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Begin just to the left of Gift Wrapped and do a few traverse moves left on good varnished holds. After this, proceed up fun climbing on decent holds to the 4th bolt. The crux comes here and holds have broken over the years. After the crux, easier climbing on decent holds leads to the chains.

Protection 

6 bolts and chain anchors.


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By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jan 24, 2014

On Friday, January 24th 2014, the ASCA replaced all protection bolts and the anchor of this route with ClimbTech glue-in wave bolts.
By ACassebeer
From: Mojave, CA
Jan 19, 2015
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

This route felt hard for the grade, with one stopper boulder problem. I thought going left at the crux was the easiest path. The last bolt seemed like it was in an odd place and placing the draw from the stance was basically impossible.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jan 19, 2015

Regarding the last bolt- I debated a bit on the bolt placement there, as the climbing looked funky and it was hard to tell exactly which direction the climb came in from. I ultimately decided after doing the moves that you trend to the right before the last bolt and placed the bolt at a stance to accommodate people of any height. I did notice that there was a stance left of there that people might climb into, but ultimately decided that was off route based off the location of the original bolt on the route. As always, rock quality always dictates final bolt placement.
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