Dear John Buttress Rock Climbing
caughtinside putting the final touches on the 5.11...
This rock holds some really tough flared crack routes and sparing mixed sport and sport routes. Climbing is on vertical and slightly overhung clean rock.
This rock is the next large rock west of the main wall, and though not as imposing, still is about 130 feet tall and contains climbs from 1 - 2 pitches, depending on where you are on the rock.
This rock is almost always in the shade, due to large trees surrounding the main climbing area, which faces east. It's an excellent spot on a hot day, since there are some cool updrafts.
All routes that reach the top can be wlkaed off to the left. Otherwise, lower off, since most routes have top anchors on the wall.
Approach time: 15 - 25 minutes (from the parking lot), 3 minutes from the West Main Wall.
From the parking lot, head left at the fork from the parking lot. Head gently uphill on the trail until 150 yards past the Monk boulder, which is the large 25 foot rock on the left side of the trail. You will see the Lower Buttress, and will find the trail heading back at a greater than 90 degree angle heading over a 3' hump and around a medium suzed tree. Head on this trail for about 150 yards, and you will be at the Lower Buttress in front of one of few sport routes.
Continue on past the lower buttress by walking around the right side of the wall up the terraces. Continue up the decent trail into the scree field, where Dear John Buttress will hover a uphill and slightly right. Almost to the top (where the Lower Buttress seems to be ending, there will be a fork in the road. Instead of bearing left to go to the top of the lower buttress, continue up and right into the trees following the gradient. The wall will appear in the trees shortly, with the trail hitting the rightmost routes on the rock first.
Weather station 6.5 miles from here
9 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Dear John Buttress
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Dear John Buttress
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Dear John Buttress:
Rehab 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Featured Route For Dear John Buttress
God of Thunder, Pitch 2 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a CA
: ... : Dear John Buttress
Climb one of the 3 God of Thunder first pitch variations. Clip the chains and continue into the route's second half.Fun, mostly hand-sized climbing takes you to a jug immediately below the first roof. Fairly straightforward movement and deep jams can be used to surmount this roof. About 10 feet of moderate offwidth brings you to a pair of old bolts and the second roof, which to me seemed considerably more difficult and puzzling than the first. A rail buried deep within the roof crack may help a ...[more] Browse More Classics in CA