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Dear Diary 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 600', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: FRA: Killis Howard and Travis Shephard 2007
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 405
Submitted By: Cultivating Mass on Apr 30, 2007

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Description 

Head up and slightly left on ledgy terrain with some 5.6 moves thrown in to a large ledge, then cut right up a left facing corner to a smaller ledge with some foliage. You know you're there when you're 180 feet up. Pitch 2 heads up the funky fist crack at 5.7/8, liebacking and jamming to a ledge. After your second joins you move left and drop down to a larger ledge with a tree. Pitch 3 shares 5.8+ crack with Burlesque, ends at good rap anchor beneath a short, crescent shaped chimney section. Pitch 4 is the crux: instead of traversing the flake left to finish Burlesque, head straight up toward obvious chimneys and a sawblade-looking flake protruding from it. Protection is intermittent and not always in quality rock, but the climbing is super varied and good. A little of everything on this one, capped by a smooth finishing chimney in solid chocolate varnish with a roof crack to a ledge. A scramble up and left puts you in position to rappel Burlesque

Location 

Starts 80ft right of the waterfall pool on a good sized ledge. This climb could easily be called Burlesque Direct if we didn't laugh so hard at the Dear Diary joke while climbing it.

Protection 

We carried double cams up to #3 BD-extra 2s and 3s would make the pitch safer and bring lots of long slings-drag was an issue even with doubles. A #4 camalot makes the P4 anchor bomber. Loose rock and challenging protection.


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By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
May 2, 2007

Sounds like an interesting variation.
By Cultivating Mass
Jun 6, 2007

Larry De emailed me that the top pitch may have been climbed before by Bill Thiry, hence the switch from FA to FRA. Don't have any info about whether Bill's ascent used Burlesque to get to the final pitch or whether he followed what we did-a more logical, straighter line up the buttress. Looking through the guidebooks the other day, I was surprised to notice that the topo line in just about everyone's book makes it look like straight up after the hand crack pitch-I wonder how many other parties have gotten lost up there over the years? In any case, enjoy the route if you get a chance to repeat it-it's in the shade until late morning-a fast party could bang this one out and then knock down some crag routes to finish the day.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 5, 2007

Bill just did the upper pitch- i remember him telling me about it. apparently it was not a good time for him and his partner. as far as i know, though, they approached via Burlesque and just forgot to make the turn.