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Dealers Choice 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Deidre Burton
Page Views: 1,174
Submitted By: 46and2 on Jun 8, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (43)
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It's all about finger size.

Photo courtesy of Gre...

Description 

Another Jacks Canyon bolted crack but fun nonetheless! Crux is probably between the first and second bolt, be a bit careful here as you might not want to fall here? Sustained good route though with some helpful rests along the way. Good quality route, have at it! PS: Guidebook says 5.10c but I think it goes closer to 10a/b IMHO, you choose?

Location 

On the trail to Casino cliffs, this climb is about 20 feet to the left from where the trail meets the wall in a small right facing corner/crack with bolts, can't miss it!

Protection 

6 Bolts and some fixed anchors at the top just waiting for you.


Photos of Dealers Choice Slideshow Add Photo
Kevin finishing a nice day with dealers choice
Kevin finishing a nice day with dealers choice
Dealer's Choice (July 2013)
Dealer's Choice (July 2013)

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By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Mar 21, 2007
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

5.9 if you've got ladies fingers, 5.10c if you run big meat hooks or you're attempting this in full sun.

Definitely finger size dependant. Great route and must do for the area. For those of you who don't climb cracks - this is a good intro as you don't have to place gear and the crack portion only goes for about 20 feet.
By noburu
From: Flagstaff
Aug 6, 2007

Fun one!! If your tall enough (around 6 feet) and you don't mind getting feet a little high, I don't think that this is too finger size dependent. You can hit tiny finger tips low, or get a much wider bottleneck up higher. (If i'm remembering correctly)
By TylerW
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 25, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

best route on the casino wall? I thought it was honest 10b, but I have sausage fingers. would protect easily with gear.
By Miguel D
Jul 13, 2014
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Good stuff. Recommend it for sure. Crack can get too thin, but even with thicker fingers you can find holds if you just keep looking up or down it. After you get to the first horizontal crack / ledge it becomes relatively easy the rest of the way