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Deaf Smith climbing
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By Spencer Daniels
From Sandy,utah
Jan 15, 2013
leading the first pitch

Anyone know any info about climbing up in deaf smith canyon?


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By MJMobes
From The land of steady habits
Jan 15, 2013
modern man

few and far between but a good hike. I once almost put my hand down on a baby rattler on a ledge about 5' off the ground there. that was after hiking through 50 yards of nettle. never brought a rope but there are a couple of bolts I saw


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By zoso
Jan 15, 2013
avatar

Tony Calderone put out a supplement a while back.

"From the water cachement, the approach times to the LOVE BONE WALL and DROP ZONE are about 30 minutes and 65 minutes respectively.

LOVE BONE WALL
Love Bone 5.10b ** G
FA: Tony Calderone 6-16-95
5 bolts, 2 chains. Climb the steep arete 10' from the trail.

DROP ZONE
Phantom Arete 5.7 * G
FA Scott Keller, Kris Sonuu, Kimber Almond 1994
All gear.

DSC Solo Slot 5.6 G
FA: Scott Keller 1993
All Gear.

HOUND'S TOOTH
West Ridge 5.6 II PG
All gear.

South Face 5.8 A2, II PG
FA: Chuck Satterfield, Davel Allen June 65
All Gear."


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By MJMobes
From The land of steady habits
Jan 15, 2013
modern man

zoso wrote:
Tony Calderone put out a supplement a while back. "From the water cachement, the approach times to the LOVE BONE WALL and DROP ZONE are about 30 minutes and 65 minutes respectively. LOVE BONE WALL Love Bone 5.10b ** G FA: Tony Calderone 6-16-95 5 bolts, 2 chains. Climb the steep arete 10' from the trail. DROP ZONE Phantom Arete 5.7 * G FA Scott Keller, Kris Sonuu, Kimber Almond 1994 All gear. DSC Solo Slot 5.6 G FA: Scott Keller 1993 All Gear. HOUND'S TOOTH West Ridge 5.6 II PG All gear. South Face 5.8 A2, II PG FA: Chuck Satterfield, Davel Allen June 65 All Gear."


is that the same dude who worked the govt. over on pay scale and told everyone he was a higher rank than he really was(jail time)?

general Calderone I presume!


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By Ken H
From Bell's Canyon, UT
Feb 25, 2013
Bird of Fire. Photo Credit Alex Cooper.

I believe Deaf Smith was removed from MP.com due to access problems. I did go up there once and question if there could/should be an easement across the private property at the mouth but do not know? As I understand it, the property owner is very much of the opinion that there is no easement. However, I'm doubtful the private properties were there before people were hiking the canyon. All that said if you do go up there expect to be greeted unfriendly and possibly a visit from the cops when you exit.

This would be a great issue for Access Fund or SLCA to undertake.


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By Spencer Daniels
From Sandy,utah
Feb 26, 2013
leading the first pitch

Zoso isn't the approach to the hounds tooth only through ferguson canyon?


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By zoso
Feb 26, 2013
avatar

Probably. I haven't ever done it. I just copied/pasted stuff.


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By Pete Spri
Feb 26, 2013

TRmasta wrote:
is that the same dude who worked the govt. over on pay scale and told everyone he was a higher rank than he really was(jail time)? general Calderone I presume!

I think the guy has gotten enough grief for these things. Last I heard he had changed and was being really chill and cool, and personally I think the guy deserves a second chance.


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By BobGray
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Feb 26, 2013
My Hero

I used to run up Deaf Smith's daily and never had an issue, you just have to know where to enter the canyon without pissing the land owners off. Also there are many routes throughout the lower portions of the Canyon if you know where to look. Several locals have been developing the area for years without letting the general public in on the secret. If you're up for an adventure poke around some of the obvious cliff bands and see if you can find bolts..........I think you'd be surprised at what you might find.


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By jihme
Feb 28, 2013

I wouldn't bother , TONS of rattlers, crappy access


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By MJMobes
From The land of steady habits
Apr 8, 2013
modern man

jihme wrote:
I wouldn't bother , TONS of rattlers, crappy access


no shit there, its snake heaven up there with almost no traffic


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By MJMobes
From The land of steady habits
Apr 8, 2013
modern man

Spri wrote:
I think the guy has gotten enough grief for these things. Last I heard he had changed and was being really chill and cool, and personally I think the guy deserves a second chance.


no, he deserves to be heckled really. he has been a complete douche to many people including myself and I dont believe he has gone around and apologized yet.


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By pat campana
Jun 10, 2013
Picture of me in Orderville Canyon, Zion Nation Park Narrows Hike

The climbing up there is great even if it is a bit of a approach. There are even a couple rare limestone deposit climbing walls if you know were to look. All the bolts have been tightened or replaced within the last couple months so get up there. There are routes up the right fork after the first mine shaft by the first campfire pit you'll see on the left(if your facing east)also if you continue going up the trail at the 2nd river crossing all the walls in the surrounding area on the left side of the canyon have bolted routes. Keep a sharp eye out and you'll probably find more. Also if you hike up the left side of the canyon the farther up you go the more cliffs you'll find great for trad or free soloing. Imagine Ferguson canyon except with quart-site walls and a jerk bag guarding the entrance. Sneak in by hiking up the mountain a little on the left side. If he catches you on the way out say you didn't know it was private property until it was to late because you hiked in from the top of fergy and got lost. Its worked for me twice. Also if you don't like people smoking pot or the smell I wouldn't go there its a haven of sorts. Party on and check out the left side too. Its awesome but no Indian ruins despite what you might here or google.


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By Matt N
From Santa Barbara, CA
Jun 10, 2013
OTL

WHAT???


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By Spencer Weiler
From SLC, UT
Aug 13, 2013
adf

I was about to post a new topic but saw this thread already started. I went up trying to access Deaf Smith today not knowing the whole access issue, just wanting to hike up there to check it out. Right off of Kings Hill Dr to the east is the private road as discussed on the summitpost approach. There are big painted words on the driveway saying "no hiking access" with about 7 signs saying private property, no trespassing etc. I was stopped almost immediately by the man who lives on the corner asking if i was heading up hiking. I cordially asked him about the trailhead and he proceeded to tell me a huge long story about "the war of deaf smith canyon". I never made it up the road.

Apparently a few years ago there was a big problem with tons of hooligans who vandalized the land owners' property, left garbage on lawns, and even had people collapse in his yard from being drunk. There was a flood one year and the teens stole the sand bags and through them in the river, creating a huge mess. He claimed the owner got fed up and he got an easement placed, so no one is allowed to cross on his property, which he described as being over 40 lots that extend from LCC to BCC all east of the current housing. He isn't building on the lots due to financial reasons. The man claimed there were cameras at the "trailhead" and a potential $700 fine for trespassing.

Obviously this guy I talked to has an agenda, so I have no idea if what all he said was true, but it certainly does appear to be a bad situation as far as access goes. He said the only way to get to Deaf Smith was through a traverse from Ferguson, as the owner doesn't own one lot over there or something, but that hike seems like would be a 30 min schwak unless there is a trail, which I doubt, though have not done it. I have heard of multiple cases this year of people going up there, but have no idea if they trespassed or have another secret access I'm unaware of.

Unfortunate circumstance where it seems like inconsiderate, rude, and likely immature folks ruined access for hikers and climbers. Regardless, it seems like poaching access through the private road will not help matters.

+1 on SLCA or access fund involvement.


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By Allen Sanderson
From Oootah
Aug 14, 2013

There is probably a mix of truth and BS in what you were told. I have no doubt that some unsavory folks spoiled access with their antics. I am not sure what easement the property owner may have - he might have been able to get a previous easement extinguished but I doubt he establish one to prevent access unless other property owners are involved.

As for the trespassing Class B misdemeanor so $1000 fine and up to 6 months in jail

The road is private however because folks have been using it for many years in an open and notorious fashion there may be a prescriptive easement established. Now that signage is up and being enforced the clock is now ticking, typically it is three years. Getting a prescriptive easement would take a court order and weighs heavily on testimony establishing usage for at least ten years. I have been up the several times since 2000.

I believe there are some other possibilities for access that would be less of a problem.


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By MikeSLC
Aug 14, 2013

Access from Golden Oak Dr (park down the street) and either take a deer trail or take the "dog walking" trail breaking away before reaching Golden Hills Canyon Rd


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By ddriver
From SLC
Aug 14, 2013

from maps.slco.org/website/assessor/public_parcelviewer/viewer.ht>>>


Deaf Smith parcels
Deaf Smith parcels



The two large parcels north of Golden Hills Canyon Rd, as well as the five smaller ones along the road next to public lands, are owned by American Healthcare, Inc. The two large parcels to the south are owned by Church of the Will of God. Both sound like tax shelters to me.

As to any easements, if there are any formally recorded, you should be able to view them at the county recorder's office if you have the parcel numbers in hand, which the above parcel viewer will give you. Typically though, an easement would not apply to the general public, but to a specific access requirement such as a utility. You're really looking at establishing a public right of way as Allen described.


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By tenesmus
Aug 16, 2013

This spring I hiked up Heugh's Canyon a few times and found it to be amazing and quiet. More crappy rock up there than you can shake a stick at. This canyon taught me that there are 7 Circles of Bushwhacking Hell.

The last time I walked out after midnight and we specifically stayed quiet as we approached and passed the house on the south side of the road. As we got near the house the land owner yelled, "What the Hell is going on out there! You are trespassing on my property. Just go home and don't come back!"

We apologized, tucked our tails and moved on. But what are the access points and issues for that canyon?

My neighbor owns the gun club and rock quarry just to the south and he says his land doesn't abut theirs so he isn't sure.


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By tenesmus
Aug 16, 2013

I used your map link and sorta can see but I'm not sure what to look for on property ownership or easement?


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By Arie
From Smog Lake City, Utah
Aug 16, 2013
BA Clive takes a seat.

Agreed- Heughes is a great little Foothill gem (...but not for the climbing...)- I've had similar troubles which seem to have increased over the years. I've tried three different access spots and always been yelled at. Maybe I should stop wearing my fluorescent shorts. My last time in I saw a group approaching from the slopes to the north- presumably from the Boulevard- avoiding the houses. Maybe that's the trick?

Perhaps the fabled Shoreline Trail will someday be our access savior. Too many Foothill adventures now require a kevlar vest.


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By ddriver
From SLC
Aug 19, 2013

tenesmus wrote:
I used your map link and sorta can see but I'm not sure what to look for on property ownership or easement?


Use the tools at upper left. The "i" for info tool will pull up owner info when you click on a parcel. That info will appear at upper right and you can click on a link there to get more details. Property ownership may or may not show up when you select a federal land parcel.

Use the hand to pan and the +/- to zoom. You won't get the parcel boundaries to appear until you zoom to the correct level.

Easements will not appear in this database.


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By Dented
From Bountiful, UT
Aug 21, 2013
The walk in, Kolob canyon.

I'm pretty sure we bushwhacked off of the peak above Lisa Falls down Deaf Smith, and it was also Seven Circles of Bushwacking Hell. Largely my wife was to thank for that descent. She was convinced it was going to be better than returning down Lisa, and nothing would dissuade her. It took something around 17 hours to get down that way. I don't recommend it, obviously. I lost my favorite jacket up there, and even though I discovered it was gone probably only twenty minutes after losing it, it wasn't worth going back up for it.
When we emerged, sometime around four in the morning, we were seriously dragging ass. Nobody came out, but I could tell I was trespassing. I didn't care, we were coming out one way or another. I would have walked through a wall of fire to get out at that point. It was dark, and we were covered in filth, spiders, and radiated ill will. I don't think anyone would have crossed us at that point.
If there is decent climbing up there, I couldn't see it because it was too dark and I was only going downhill by then. It would take an act of congress to convince me to return. Heh!


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By MJMobes
From The land of steady habits
Aug 22, 2013
modern man

Dented wrote:
I'm pretty sure we bushwhacked off of the peak above Lisa Falls down Deaf Smith, and it was also Seven Circles of Bushwacking Hell.


too bad man, Lisa Falls to BCC is one of the best hikes I have ever done.


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By tenesmus
Aug 27, 2013

Funny you mention spiders. When I got back from my Heugh's canyon scrubbing I had a couple of spiders crawl out of my shoes and shorts. Creepy, but I still had to chuckle.


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By pat campana
Aug 27, 2013
Picture of me in Orderville Canyon, Zion Nation Park Narrows Hike

There are way more routes in the canyon that are bolted than the 3 listed below. Many of the bolts are painted to disguise them so you have to look carefully. I live in house a couple blocks away from the base of deafsmiths and have been hiking up there since I was a kid. He only owns about 200 ft up the canyon. There is a trout trap that goes across the stream and a metal pole in the trees on the north side of the stream that marks his property boundary. If your worried about encountering him traverse into the canyon up on the mountain from the north side. If you decided to camp hike really far up. And watch out for rattle snakes. I encountered 6 on a 3 day backpacking trip up to the top of twin peaks. There is no trail past a certain part so bring a machete for brush and killing snakes. In the north fork after about 4 to 6 hours (depending if you can find deer trails through the brush) of the most brutal bush wacking and hiking you've ever encountered it opens up and flattens out and is a great place to camp. In the south fork you hike for about 3 cross a rock slide and then there is a man bridge crossing the river with an amazing camp site that has been built up over the years. Google indian ruins in deafsmiths and you'll see a picture of the sight i'm talking about. They aren't indian ruins though the only artifacts you'll find up there are decades worth of beer cans.


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