BETA PHOTO: Watch out for these on the road! We saw a couple ...
Deadwater is a somewhat sleepy crag discovered in 2001 by local guide, Ed Palen. The cliff holds a very nice selection of routes mainly in the 5.7 to 5.10 range. The crag consists of three distinct walls: The left end, main cliff, and right end. The climbing here varies from vertical to overhanging face-climbing to technical crack and corner climbs. All routes protect wonderfully, and, thanks to the steadfast efforts by the progenitors of this cliff, each route is equipped with its own anchor. Despite the existence of anchors atop each route, it is nearly impossible to get to the top of the cliff without leading a route. Therefore, THIS IS NOT A TOP-ROPING AREA.
Area highlights include "Bozeman Bullet" (5.6), "Space Cowboy" (5.7), "Tombstone" (5.10a), and "Reach For The Sky" (5.10b).
Much effort has been made to keep erosion at bay. Steps and terraces have been built, and careful trail maintenance will hopefully keep the impact of increased traffic to a minimum. With the exception of the large terrace below the "Space Cowboy" corner, most of the cliff base has the tendancy to get cramped, so please be courteous and thoughtful of others. Enjoy this hidden gem, and please leave it as you found it.
About 1.3 miles south of I-87 exit 30 on Route 9 is a large pullout on the east (left) side of the road. Park here, cross the road, and head north on the shoulder until a small, but very distinct trail leaves the shoulder of the road and heads into the woods. Follow the trail through a very nice birch and pine forest for about 5 minutes until you reach the cliff.
The main cliff and right end are accessed by way of this main trail, while the left end follows a faint, often overlooked trail that leaves the main trail about midway to the cliff at a felled birch tree.
Weather station 11.3 miles from here
20 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Deadwater
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Deadwater:
Featured Route For Deadwater
The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c NY
: ... : Main Cliff
Pull left around the arete to a stance already 50 feet of the deck. Foot traverse left and move up to the base of a 4 inch OW crack. Climb the bolt protected crack (or bring big cams)making a tricky mantle to the top of a free standing pillar. Another tricky move leads to a piton and sustained jug hauling to an optional belay/rap at a tree. Continue past tree through cracks to the top another 20 feet. Making way to the high anchor of Bozeman Bullet. Its a fun route and has a few committing...[more] Browse More Classics in NY
From: San Pedro, California
Sep 26, 2012
Everywhere else i looked at in chapel pond pass was totally soaked from rain last night and overcast drizzle today. Deadwater was almost totally dry! Made our day today.
1 day ago
Do not take the faint trail marked by a small cairn about 40 feet left of the correct (and "distinct") trail which is currently marked by two large wood chunks.