Route 14 in photo. The first climb you see as you come out ot the trees from the parking area. Climb the short face to the first bolt and follow the arete to the left. Transition to the face on your right and continue straight up.
8 bolts, 2-bolt anchor at top with chains.
|Comments on Deadman's Rappel
|By Rick D|
From: Reno, NV
Mar 24, 2009
FA: Bill Nagel, Ron Anderson, 77'
|By Ron Anderson|
Aug 7, 2009
retro bolted by the first ascentionist..... originally done clean...
Sep 22, 2013
Regarding Deadmans Rappel which on this site some are calling the gash,,,, A rather SERIOUS accident occurred on this climb recently. The large block just up and left of the first bolt was pulled off by a climber off route, resulting in broken arms and an amputated leg.
This block had bee messed with prior to the accident by someone gardening the squaw tea brush around it, which then loosened the block which by pics provided had begun to lean outward. The dirt and rubble holding it in place being washed out by rains and snows. It was the ready to topple off IF someone grabbed it. Which happened and resulted in dire consequence.
My point here is that IF you decides to clean some brush, or around obvious loose blocks which the brush interact with, go ahead and trundle to pos block. Other wise its just another time bomb. That block and brush had been there for at least 37 years that i know of but that gardening made it go from stable to dangerous in a season or two. The route is popular and has seen thousands of ascents. All of which by passed the block well to the left as the route goes. But one errant grab is all it took..