Deadend Dihedral 5.12b PG13
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II |
| Consensus: | 5.12b [details] |
| FA: | John Rance, Frank Baumann 1969. FFA Craig McGee and Evan Stevens |
| Submitted By: | Evan Stevens on Sep 10, 2007 |
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Falcon nesting closures are usually in effect from March 15 to July 31. MORE INFO >>>
Falcon nesting closures are usually in effect from March 15 to July 31. See the BC parks website for more details: www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/parkpgs/stawamus/
From the BC Parks site:
Closed Climbs: Millennium Falcon, Sports Illustrated, Cloud Burst, Sea of Tranquility, Getting Down on the Brown, Supernaut, Clean Corner, Negro Lesbian, Crap Crags, Slow Dyke, Illusion, Planet Caravan, Warriors Wasteland, Freeway (above 5th pitch), The Big Slick, Brothers in Arms, Western Dihedral (4th pitch and above).
Open Climbs: Arrow Root, Cleaning the Brain, Deadend Dihedral, Rutabaga, Sticky Fingers, Slow Duck, Time Passages, Freeway (to the top of 5th pitch) and Western Dihedral (to the top of the 3rd pitch).
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Description A long standing unfreed super classic 3 pitch route that was finally cleaned up, retro-fitted and freed this summer (2007).
p1: 11b. Use any technique in the book to climb the dihedral for 35m to the bolted belay. Many small cams and wires, but there are good rests, hang in there!
p2: 12b 10m. Clip the bolt above the belay and figure out the short but vicious crux, followed by a beautiful thin finger crack to the 2 bolt belay.
p3: 12a 20m. Follow the impeccable dihedral to its end, then undercling and traverse left to the anchor. Clip the bolt and call upon the onsight gods to figure out the mystery finish move to the bolted belay.
2 35m raps get you back to your backpacks.
Location The Dihedrals area to the left of Freeway and the right of Arrowroot and Millenium Falcon. There should be a fixed line to pull up to a stance below a 40m x 1m wide dihedral with a thin crack.
Protection RPs x 2, Small wires x 2, Double set of cams from grey tcu to .75 camalot, one each #1, 2 and 3 camalot. Dozen draws and runners (for the many small wires!)
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