|718 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 3 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II|
|Consensus: ||5.12b [details]|
|FA: ||John Rance, Frank Baumann 1969. FFA Craig McGee and Evan Stevens|
|Submitted By: ||Evan Stevens on Sep 10, 2007|
|Falcon nesting closures are usually in effect from March 15 to July 31. MORE INFO >>>|
A long standing unfreed super classic 3 pitch route that was finally cleaned up, retro-fitted and freed this summer (2007).
p1: 11b. Use any technique in the book to climb the dihedral for 35m to the bolted belay. Many small cams and wires, but there are good rests, hang in there!
p2: 12b 10m. Clip the bolt above the belay and figure out the short but vicious crux, followed by a beautiful thin finger crack to the 2 bolt belay.
p3: 12a 20m. Follow the impeccable dihedral to its end, then undercling and traverse left to the anchor. Clip the bolt and call upon the onsight gods to figure out the mystery finish move to the bolted belay.
2 35m raps get you back to your backpacks.
The Dihedrals area to the left of Freeway and the right of Arrowroot and Millenium Falcon. There should be a fixed line to pull up to a stance below a 40m x 1m wide dihedral with a thin crack.
RPs x 2, Small wires x 2, Double set of cams from grey tcu to .75 camalot, one each #1, 2 and 3 camalot. Dozen draws and runners (for the many small wires!)