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Point of Moab
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Dead Sea Route T 
Variation to DSR T 

Dead Sea Route 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A1+

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 350', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A1+ [details]
FA: Harvey Carter & Tim Jennings, 1967
Page Views: 474
Submitted By: Ben Kiessel on Mar 30, 2007

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Rappeling to the notch.

Location 

The route starts on the south east side of the tower, look for the obvious bolts.

Description 

Pitch 1-
Climb a bolt ladder to a crack that deteriorates the higher you get. Pass and old anchor and continue on a better crack to a great belay ledge. (5.9 A1+, 130')

Pitch 2-
Climb the obvious crack above the belay to the notch. (look for anchors on the right side of the notch)(5.10, 50')

Pitch 3-
This is not really a pitch, but move your belay to the notch on the far side of the tower. (4th class)

Pitch 4-
Climb mixed free and aid, over a roof to a bolt ladder and on to the summit. (5.9 C1, 170')

Descent-
Rappel from the summit to the top of pitch 2, then down the route.

Protection 

Double set of cams, stoppers, I hammered a single angle in pitch 1, but it should go clean without to much trouble.


Photos of Dead Sea Route Slideshow Add Photo
Ben on the first pitch
Ben on the first pitch
Matt on pitch 4, this is a great handcrack through the roof.  <br /> <br />The pitch later become 2-3 bolts, then free climbing, couple more bolts free climbing etc.
Matt on pitch 4, this is a great handcrack through...
p3&4 from west
p3&4 from west

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By paul bucher
From: moab, utah
Sep 29, 2011

ALT frog (aka frog bypass). i bailed on the first pitch. couldn't pull it. on 9/28/11 the wife and i continued on the approach trail all the way around the point to the northern most notch (second, as viewed from town). short scramble up, head back south to slabs and angle down right heading for a road. stayed on road for a short time then left to notch of frog. did the 4th class pitch unroped in hiking boots (a little sketchy, especially on the down climb). sat at the base of pitch 4 with binoculars and did not see a bolt ladder. the beginning roof part ( in photo ) looks good. could see 3 old bolts with large hangers high up. did i miss the "bolt ladder"? any body got beta on pitch 4?
By paul bucher
From: moab, utah
Jan 28, 2012

toped out yesterday thanks to sam lightner. thanks sam. one of the best views of any climb in the area. bomber anchors on top