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The Beach
Routes Sorted
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Albinestone S 
Apes and Ballerinas T 
Between the Cheeks S 
Dead Reckoning (aka the Terry-Michaels route) T,S 
Heaven's rear-entry vehicle, parked out back, tow away zone T 
Normandy S 
Perverse Traverse, The S 
Up'er Zipper T,S 

Dead Reckoning (aka the Terry-Michaels route) 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Terry Lien, Tom Michaels
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,701
Submitted By: Thomas Ramier on Jul 17, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

Amazing.
Steep.
Clean and FUN.

P1 is 11b/c

P2 is 11d


Protection 

small to #2
#3 optional for P2


Photos of Dead Reckoning (aka the Terry-Michaels route) Slideshow Add Photo
P2 (photo cred Tom Ramier)
P2 (photo cred Tom Ramier)
end of P2 (photo cred Tom Ramier)
end of P2 (photo cred Tom Ramier)
P2
P2
P1
P1
Tie knots!
Tie knots!

Comments on Dead Reckoning (aka the Terry-Michaels route) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris Kalman
Jul 24, 2013

Incredibly good climbing, and some of the steepest at Index! Kudos to Tom on the hard work.
By braddean
Jul 30, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

One of the best routes I've ever been on. Steep, varied with wild, unique feautes. Solid rock in one of the best positions around. I don't even mind that Tom stole my bolt hangers to make it happen!

--Brad
By Mike Schmitt
Aug 20, 2013

Amazing climbing on perfect rock!! For p1, a single set of cams from red C3 to .75 C4 works well (maybe bring 2x .5). I haven't tried p2 yet, but it looks even better than p1...
By kerwinl
Mar 9, 2015

Can this be rappelled from the top of P2 with a 70 back to the beach ledge? Rappelling from the top of P1 got pretty close to the edge and P2 looked even more overhanging.
By derekpearson
Mar 9, 2015

Kerwinl, go to the beach photos and look at "index steep" photo . That should answer your question . Lol. I think you need two ropes .
By kerwinl
Mar 10, 2015

That photo is very informing, with two ropes would have the length, but might be off the edge. Also hard to tell exactly which route is being rappelled.

I did notice a fixed nut on p2 with a carabiner on it, one may be able to clip into that on rappel and make it back to the p1 anchor, or simply clip the chains and lower back down, using a quickdraw attached to the other side of the rope to avoid swinging out. I will go back and check it out for sure.
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