Dead in Bed 5.10b
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| Type: | Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10b [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | W. Spaller on Jul 21, 2012 |
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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice:
Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation.
Alligator Rock is also closed.
www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This is a very fun 4 pitch route on the west face of the Bookmark.
Pitch 1. Start with the first pitch of Fantasy Ridge, the left leaning hand and fist crack. Belay below a large flake.(~70ft).
Pitch 2. Continue up the left leaning dual cracks (2nd pitch of Sidewinder). At the top of the dual cracks head up and a little right up a 5.8 hand crack. Belay on a large ledge with a large horn on its right side. (~160ft)
Pitch 3. Crux pitch. Locate the thin crack directly above the ledge. It just to the right of a large left facing dihedral. Climb up the thin crack to a horizontal break and then traverse left to a hand/fist crack and belay there. Felt similar to but slightly easier than Thindependence (10b, ~70ft).
Pitch 4. Climb the hand/fist crack to the top (5.9, ~120ft)
Location West face of the Bookmark. Same location at Fantasy Ridge.
Protection SR with a #4 for the pitch #4 fist crack and a few extra small stoppers for the crux.
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