Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Bookmark
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel aka Melvin's Wheel, The T 
Backflip T 
Bellyflop T,S 
Between The Sheets T 
Bookmark OW T 
Cave Route T 
Coleman's Complex T 
Crack of No Return T 
Dead in Bed T 
East Side T 
Fall Out T 
Fantasy Ridge T 
Goose, The T,S 
Inside Straight T 
Joy and Tribulation T 
Klingon (with direct start) T 
Manhole Cover T 
Marginal Line T 
Original Fantasy Ridge T 
Penis Chimney T 
Plan A T 
Rhythm Method T 
Romulan Territory T 
Screamin' Eagles S 
Seams Like A Dream T 
Sojourn T 
Son of a Pitch T 
Star Trek T 
Time Machine T 
Twiggy's Crack T 
Virgin Spring T 
Wigglin' Fingies T 
Unsorted Routes:

Dead in Bed 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 254
Submitted By: W. Spaller on Jul 21, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
The line.

Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a very fun 4 pitch route on the west face of the Bookmark.

Pitch 1. Start with the first pitch of Fantasy Ridge, the left leaning hand and fist crack. Belay below a large flake.(~70ft).

Pitch 2. Continue up the left leaning dual cracks (2nd pitch of Sidewinder). At the top of the dual cracks head up and a little right up a 5.8 hand crack. Belay on a large ledge with a large horn on its right side. (~160ft)

Pitch 3. Crux pitch. Locate the thin crack directly above the ledge. It just to the right of a large left facing dihedral. Climb up the thin crack to a horizontal break and then traverse left to a hand/fist crack and belay there. Felt similar to but slightly easier than Thindependence (10b, ~70ft).

Pitch 4. Climb the hand/fist crack to the top (5.9, ~120ft)

Location 

West face of the Bookmark. Same location at Fantasy Ridge.

Protection 

SR with a #4 for the pitch #4 fist crack and a few extra small stoppers for the crux.


Photos of Dead in Bed Slideshow Add Photo
Will following the third pitch.
Will following the third pitch.
1st pitch.
1st pitch.
Climb that thin crack in the middle to the horizontal crack.  Then take a hard left to a stance.  Two .10 cruxes on this pitch.  A green Camalot fits nicely in the blind placement.  You will know the blind placement when you get there.
Climb that thin crack in the middle to the horizon...
Second pitch.  Follow the bushes then the path of least resistance to a big ledge.
Second pitch. Follow the bushes then the path of ...
Follow the nice hand, to fist to slightly offwidth crack.  Then take the path of least resistance to the top.
Follow the nice hand, to fist to slightly offwidth...

Comments on Dead in Bed Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -