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Drone Wall
Routes Sorted
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Beeleave S 
Bushy Tailed Wood Rat S 
Dead Finger S 
Drone, The S 
Prestidigitator  S 
Rain Delay S 
Rattler, The S 
Rubber Boa, The S 
short, shitty and sharp S 
Snaked S 
Stinger S 
Tres Hermanos S 
Unknown 5.11d S 

Dead Finger 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Doug Stout, Darren Knezek, Kelly Chamberlain
Page Views: 875
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Oct 26, 2008

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Dead finger on right, rain delay on left


Climb up onto the ledge from the ground and clip the first bolt. Using pockets of various sizes (including finger-killing-size) continue up the face. Clip the fourth bolt, figure out how to get past it, and then continue past the fifth bolt to the chains. Some enjoyable movement on this route, and some killer holds.


The third bolted line from the right; located on the side of the crag facing the road.


5 bolts, chain anchors.

Photos of Dead Finger Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Drone Wall, middle right.  7. 5.12c 8. Rain Delay ...
BETA PHOTO: Drone Wall, middle right. 7. 5.12c 8. Rain Delay ...

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By darrell hodges
Nov 2, 2008

Ha ha.
Good name for this route! If you find the right "hold" then you will lose all feeling in the tip of the ring finger of your right hand.
Also, Doug Stout snapped a finger tendon working this route in the late 90's, rendering the finger dead for awhile.
From: Texas
Aug 13, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I'm not sure if that ledge about half way up is on or not, but it made for a nice rest and lets you shake out a little before moving into the crux. I thought this was a really fun route that was really well sustained. I liked it a lot.

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