Dead Can Dance 

This is one of my favorite routes at Avalon. Fun, airy moves with excellent position. Also, it seems a bit easier than 10a. The move stepping left under the roof is more committing than difficult. Many of my friends who are not 5.10 climbers have cruised this pitch on a top rope. I'd give it two stars and rate it 5.9.

RR calls this Dead Can Dance, 10a; see Tomb of Sorrows comment.

A two star route on a one star crag. Parse that!

The move left under the roof is 5.9, not 5.10a; many of my climbing partners concur.

This is a good pitch for climbers breaking into 5.9 sport leading.

Two things I've noticed about you, Ron: You feel the need to post on every single climb you do (in this case, TWICE), and you seem to be climbing with (and posting photos of) a different woman every week. I guess I'm jealous.

AC: How do you know how much Ron is climbing? Perhaps he's posting on only 10% of the routes he climbs. That's what makes me jealous!

Unique pitch; sustained and varied. The last several feet can mix you up. Pro is fine but there are a few spooky moves right before clips. I wouldn't recommend this to someone just breaking into 5.10 leading.

5.9,5.9+ whatever the grade, a lot of fun with good features, interesting climbing. Well worth two stars.

Regarding Dogs at the Crags:

I am not opposed to people bringing their dogs to the crags, however, if you do, you must be responsible for your dog at ALL times.

Considerations:

It is not OK for your dog to bark at, or approach in an aggressive manner, other climbers coming up to the crag. If your dog is [territorial] and aggressive, leave it at home.

It is not OK for your dog to leave a pile of shit at the bottom of a crag. As of this Sunday, there is a big pile of dog shit at the bottom of the route Dead Can Dance at Avalon. This is unconscionable and should never happen. It is not the dog's fault, but the owner's. CLEAN UP AFTER YOUR DOG or don't bring your dog.

This stuff is just common sense and common courtesy.

Come on people. We need to work together here.

Richard Rossiter

It is easily and safely led on gear.

This climb currently has a spinner bolt.

Our group consensus was this was 9+. Fun route with big holds. I've recently been leading on 5.8 and 5.9 but not sure if I was ready to lead this one.

One of my favs in the canyon so far, great exposure, variable climbing, and nice bolts. Good job.

Has one bolt that spins somewhat - maybe the same one Dr. Evil mentioned?

Loved it. 9+ seems about right. The last moves before the anchor were indeed committing. One longer draw on the bolt under the roof should cut out the rope drag.

A fun route of the "why does it have a plus" variety. Awkward/unexpected positions and being over vertical for some moves make it a plus for me. A great route because they holds are indeed big 5.9 holds, but you need to move smartly. If you're struggling with a move, consider that you're probably doing it wrong and need to look around for somewhere else to grab or put your foot to make it a 5.9 move.

The 5th bolt needs the extended draw to avoid some ugly dragging - a shoulder length sling would be a good length.

I got a bail biner off this today. PM me if it's yours and you want it back.