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This route is the first 20-25 feet of the Direct Dead Boy, but instead, you make a thin, rising traverse to the right until you hit the small ledge. The climbing on the traverse is very thin and takes a little bit of balance as well. TR or go up the 5.10a crack to another anchor.
Not much gear but some small to med stoppers, med-hand sized cams, one or 2 very small RPs.
Chuck Graves looks at the crux traverse.
Chuck Graves begins the quality second pitch. Gill...
|By Ivan Rezucha|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jul 11, 2004
See Road Kill for a photo of this and nearby routes.
|By Luke Clarke|
Jul 18, 2004
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
LIked this climb a lot. The dihedral gives us nice warm up in the hard 9 or easy 10 range and the pitch ends with a committing but protectable crux. Red micro Camalot fits nicely just before the crack closes off. but RPs would work nicely too. Continuing with the next two pitches of Living Dead seems a good choice. Weather went bad on us after two pitches but we got down in two raps from bolts with a single rope so it was a good choice on an iffy weather day.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 30, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
You can continue through this pitch an up the arete to the right for a total of 65m to an OK belay, and then another pitch to a huge slung spike of rock. From there, rap down 35m to tree, 20m to ledge (sling raps) 15m to George's Tree bolts, then 20m more to ground. Don't skip a station unless you like stuck ropes....
May 10, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b PG13
I had looked forward to doing this route for quite a while, but I ended up being a bit disappointed. The route was ok but not really what I was expecting. Mostly easy climbing with a brief crux, some of the rock isn't that great, a fair amount of bird crap, feathers, etc. I didn't think the protection on the traverse was all that great, particularly given the direction of rope pull, how close the gear was to the lip of the crack, the size of the gear, etc.
For me, the crux was the nasty one legged step-up with not much for hands. Do this in crisp, shady temps with fresh toes. For short folks, the move after the step-up might be the crux.
I'm pretty surprised to see Tony give this 10a, as he usually describes the thin balancy stuff to not be his forte. I thought it was pretty tough.