|240 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 40'|
|FA: ||Tony Bubb & Sarah Hayes, 12/2005|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Dec 31, 2005|
This route is only slightly better than Death By Misadventure and was climbed in an effort to avoid Death By Misadventure. In only that respect, it is a reasonable route.Fron the webbing 'anchors' atop of Billabong, climb the strange grrove and cracks up and right about 20 feet. at the top of this feature, it is possible to foot-traverse right on a horizontal feature, heading over almost around a corner (5.10-, R) to reach another crack. A few small cams can be placed before launching off upward in a shallow rounded corner. The last pro placed as the smallest micro-camalot I had (the .22" red one) and perhaps a nest of ballnuts could have gone in higher. The grainy rock made this dubious anyway. A few meters higher, the crux climbing came, with odd "liebacks" with nothing more than odd scoops and bulges for both feet and hands.
The holds were sheading greatly as I weant up. I did grind things down with my feet and fingers, very significantly cleaning the holds, and my partner found much less loose on it following, but I would still consider leading this bold and dangerous until the route is cleaned up further.
Thin cams and a few longer slings.