De Gaulle Syndrome
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This is a short bouldery route, that last route on the right end of Spiney Ridge. The crux is the first 3 bolts of the climb, an extended boulder problem that feels about like a V4/5. After the crux, a nice rest sets you up for some easier climbing to a slightly awkward move into the v groove above.
This is the last route on Spiney Ridge.
8 bolts + anchors.
|Comments on De Gaulle Syndrome
|By Rick Thompson|
From: Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Feb 24, 2012
More fun than first meets the eye.
FA: Tod Anderson & Rick Thompson, 2003.
Dec 22, 2012
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a
Pretty cool route, definitely better than it looks. Probably best to just stick clip the 2nd bolt, as the rock down low is kind of chippy. Fairly difficult bouldery crux at the start - I thought it felt WAY harder than Quoting Yoda (to the left, which the Bob D. guide gives 12b). It requires a combination of strength and positioning. There are some footholds, but I found them hard to use. The sidepull at the crux is one of those that you keep fondling, but it never feels as good as you think it should. I never felt like I mastered it - I just kind of flubbed my way through it.
Get a good rest after the crux - the section above into the v-slot is more taxing than it appears....
|By Joshua Merriam|
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 15, 2013
Helen ripped off the right hand crimp in the middle of the crux (with her 95lbs of crushing) yesterday. Probably a bit harder now that you have to reach all the way to the sidepull/undercling out left from the lower holds and then into the shallow two-finger with the other hand.