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Lenticular Dome
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Dazed and Confused 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Bud Bruce, Brad Johnson, Mike Orr and Randy Vogel, January 1977
Page Views: 3,461
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2005
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Near the end of P1. Photo by Neale Brain

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Description 

Climb a steep slabby face with 4 bolts using smears and edges passing an optional bolted anchor and then continue past one more bolt to the top and another bolted anchor. To descend: either walk off down slabs on the northwest side of the formation (climber's left) or rap the route with a single 60M rope in two (2) raps. Make sure to use a 60 meter rope or longer!

Typically done as a single pitch route but it can also be done in two.


Location 

This route lies just left of the classic Mental Physics on the west face of Lenticular Dome.


Protection 

5 bolts, bolted anchor/rap (all bolts are 3/8")



Photos of Dazed and Confused Slideshow Add Photo
Ryan leading up Dazed and Confused. January 2008.
Ryan leading up Dazed and Confused. January 2008.
Mental Physics
BETA PHOTO: Mental Physics
High up on Dazed and Confused.  Terrific route.  January 2008.
High up on Dazed and Confused. Terrific route. J...
Clipping the third bolt on Dazed and confused.
Clipping the third bolt on Dazed and confused.
Ryan on Dazed and Confused. January 2008.
Ryan on Dazed and Confused. January 2008.
Comments on Dazed and Confused Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 11, 2013
By Steve Powell
From: Alhambra, California
Nov 28, 2002

another funroute. seems a little harder than 5.9

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Jan 7, 2003
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a R

Edgy first pitch and run-out second to a wonderful summit.

Unfortunately a lot of people seem to rap off after the first pitch, evidenced by a large number of slings which I once removed from the bolt anchor at pitch 1.

A worthy, albeit harder, companion to Mental Physics.

Position, character, location.

By C Miller
Administrator
Jan 7, 2003

As previously mentioned it is possible and even recommended to do this route in one pitch. There should not be any slings left behind as the anchors are all metal hardware.

By Woody Stark
May 13, 2003

I've climbed this route a couple of times. It's a wonderful route; however, I'd rate it 10a.

By Bo Johnston
Feb 6, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

I'd give the route a 5.10a. I remember it being quite a bit harder than the advertised 5.9. Maybe it is just the space between bolts. I think I only climbed the first pitch and came down.

By Jack_Thompson
Apr 18, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

I think the reason this climb feels harder than 5.9 to some is that (in my opinion) the difficulty stays pretty consistant in the first pitch right off the deck with potential for some nice size falls that someone climbing at or near their current limit will certainly take seriously. Becasue the moves are all there and solid, this factor should make the movement of this climb quite enjoyable for those who comfortably lead at this grade (at Josh) and add to the feeling of adventure for those pushing their limits. The route also rises steeply in an upper section (P1) setting it apart from many low angle slabs whos' sloping character can hide the exposure and the feeling of being runout--something I think very much adds to the route'

By Larry Stone
Oct 31, 2005
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

Great route.....clean rock and a fun safe lead..Fantastic day with JF and KF....

By Bill Rusk
From: Duluth, MN
Jan 29, 2008

I loved this route. I just TRed the first pitch but the movements were so much fun once I figured them out. The crux seemed to be near the first bolt. Gotta trust the JTree friction.

By TylerW
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 23, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13

fairly runout, but not to hard for 5.9

By Simon Hatfield
From: Oakland, CA
Dec 13, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a R

Decided not to lead this one, as the first bolt is damn high over a bone breaking fall, 30 minutes from your car. On toprope, I found that the bolts are quite logically placed (just at the difficult parts) and that the climb is pretty cool.

Recommended if you have the balls.

By Evelyn Alvarez
Dec 16, 2010

Indeed the first bolt is rather high. The rest of the climb doesn't kick back until the top and even then it's run out but easy. Many of the holds were ity bity but there. The combination of which makes this a fun climb indeed!

By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Jan 5, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

This was a good warmup to get the footwork dialed. We were waiting on Mental Physics to open up. It was one where you steel yourself for the climb up to the next bolt once you gain the previous. Since the comparison comes up, this is definitely a 5.9 if Loose Lady is 5.10a.

By Canon
Nov 22, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Definitely one of the most sustained bolted 5.9s I've ever been on at J Tree. The bolts are FAR apart - Colonel Mustard's comment that clipping a bolt lets you mentally prepare yourself for the climb to the next one is ACCURATE! It's all there. Great stuff.

By Lisa J
Dec 11, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a R

Wonderful route with lots of tiny edges.

First bolt is 25 feet up with some tough moves to get to it. Plenty of exposure and a bad place to fall. Might deserve an R rating for this and also for long runout.