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(4) Star Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Asteroid Dust (Morning Star Extension) T 
Cry of the Gerbil  S 
Dark Star T 
Daytime Drama S 
Freon T 
Johnny and the Mellonheads T 
Last Days T 
Left Wing T,S 
Lethal Dose T,TR 
Levitate T 
Mantra T 
Mantra Extension T 
Morning Star T 
Neutron Star T 
St. Paddee's Day T 
Tim S 
Turning Point T 

Daytime Drama 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 505
Submitted By: Vernon Stiefel on Jul 11, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Description 

Technical and varied climbing on a column past eight bolts leads to the upper crack section of Morning Star. The crux comes between bolt #3 and #4. Reaching bolt #8 is somewhat contrived because you have to consciously avoid using the Morning Star crack on your right. The climbing quality, however, is excellent.

Location 

The bolted column adjacent to Morning Star on the Star Wall.

Protection 

QD's and optional gear to 0.5" for the upper crack portion of Morning Star. Beefy chain anchors are at the top.


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By Lurker
Administrator
From: Arcata, CA
Apr 5, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Last 2 bolts are pretty contrived...line of weakness is to finish up Morning Star. Really excellent climbing otherwise.
By Brett Yost
From: Bend, Oregon
Mar 1, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This was rated 12a by the FA and I think that is pretty spot on.
The upper line does get close to Morning Star but that didn't detract for me. There is a nice sequence of moves that stay in a natural line and distinct from Morning Star and go at a grade very consistent with the rest of the climb.

Fun, long, great rock. I'd give it 3.5 stars.
By kent benesch
Aug 18, 2015

I agree this route deserves a 5.12a rating. Excellent climbing on perfect stone.

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