Effective this date and until further notice, Special Closure Order 05-189, dated March 18, 2002, is hereby amended as follows: All persons are permitted access into the “Squaretop Area, which includes all existing rock climbing sites and/or domes (i.e. Squaretop and Lower Squaretop), Dragoon Mountains in Township 17 South, Range 23 East, the East ½ of the Northeast ¼ of Section 27 and the Northeast ¼ of the Southeast ¼ of Section 27.
All persons are permitted access into or through Rockfellow Dome Park, Dragoon Mountains (Township 17, Range 23 East, West ½ Section 26) except as follows:
Unless exempt with a permit specifically authorizing the prohibited activity, no persons may be upon any part of Rockfellow Dome Complex and/or Cochise Dome (aka What’s My Line Dome) by rock climbing or any other means of access, annually from March 1st through June 30th; and/or
Unless exempt with a permit specifically authorizing the prohibited activity, no overnight camping is permitted within Rockfellow Dome Park (Township 17, Range 23 East, West ½ Section 26) annually from March 1st through June 30th.
Douglas Ranger District Tel: 520.364.6816.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
Another Rockfellow classic. This is located on End Pinnacle on the west side of the area. Approach by skirting around the formation to the right from the approach. The climb is the first crack to the left of the large chimney separating End Pinnacle from the rest of the formation. Thanks to Scott Ayers for correcting some of my faulty memories.
Pitch 1: The crack doesn't quite reach the ground so you have to start to the left, up to a bolt, and then traverse right to the main crack. Depending on how tall you are (I'm 6'6" so my ratings are all very suspect) this is anywhere from 5.8+ to 5.10b. A little tension will get you through this if you can't make the reach. Once in the main crack, chimney up and then use chickenheads on the right to reach a bolted belay. The rest of the route is 5.8+ or so - the difficulty is not really 10b but the runouts above make the route quite serious. The chimney is fairly secure but not really protectable - you might feel this is a bit R-rated. (160', 5.8 A0 or 5.10b if free climbed)
Pitch 2: Follow an excellent fist sized crack up until it ends at a hanging belay stance (5.8+)
Pitch 3: Climb steep face past three bolts to a welcome ledge (first non-hanging belay!). This is almost R rated - there are 3 bolts in 120' of climbing. Last time I led this I wussed out to the chimney on the right after the 2nd or 3rd bolt. (120', 5.8+)
Pitch 4: Up past a couple of bolts to the summit. The start is pretty runout to the first bolt 25' up. This one has never bothered me much though.
Descent: Start from a pine tree at the east side of the summit, overlooking the fissure separating EP from the main dome. Two double rope raps take you into the big chimney. You need to go up through a hole to find the last rap station that takes you to the bottom on the side opposite the climb. This is all pretty hazy for me so be careful!
You'll need some slings for chickenheads on P1 and perhaps an extra #2 - #3 camalot for P2. Hexes work well on this pitch.
I've done this route twice and it is a great adventure. There was an inspiring photo of this climb in Climbing Mag some time in the early 80's.
You can approach from the east or west. It's shorter from the east but rougher. You might think a pinnacle would have a pointy summit, but the summit is covered by very large potholes which may be filled by water, or even ice if you climb it in January. Even the descent is fun (figuring it out). Adventure climbing at its best. The runouts aren't too scary, go for it!
also if you want to wuss out you can escape to Endgame and finish on that route. The real rated R part comes on pitch 4 when if you were to land on the ledge after the HUGE runout. Pitch 3 is necky but looks like a clean fall.
Cool route. This is the climb for everyone who did Crimson Chrysalis in Red Rocks and complained that it was overbolted.
By John Hayes From: Bend, OR Jan 9, 2010 rating: 5.10a6a18VI+18E1 5a PG13
Interesting...when I first climbed this route 25 years ago, it was rated 5.9. The upper pitches are "pretty sporty" so watch what you are doing. One tip: It is possible (and desirable) to step out left on the scary, overhanging face out of the first belay alcove. It seems unlikely, but the chickenheads are perfect and it is a much better way to go than tackling the flared squeeze chimney above the alcove to get to the crack above(IMHO.) You can sling the chickheads for excellent pro'. Even the descent is an adventure which is why this climb is one of the great, classic adventure climbs in the Stronghold. Take a full rack, some extra slings (for slinging chickenheads,) and have fun!
To be accurate, this route is (as advertised) 5.9/A0 or 5.10. The aid move can quite safely be freed. This is my all time favorite climb, a fantastic adventure. I agree with John on bypassing the chimney out of the alcove and climbing chicken heads instead. Matter of fact, I climbed this route with John. :)
cool, cool route! I'm glad I didn't lead pitch 1 or 3, yikes-Mike K. did awesome-both the AZ Mikes who lead it that day did great! But I still loved it all, the chimney P1 was a grunt, hard (and getting up to it). The party before us, and Mike K., they all made it look really effortless-when I got on there, I was scared at that traversy section, and huffing & puffing blow your house down style in chimney. I was so happy to have lucked out with leading P2, what an awesome, stellar pitch! It's hard to consider P1 5.9... but maybe that's just me. Amazing classic route! We came back to the packs via inner passageway... (interiors), and that certainly left an impression...
Great route, after the first 50' or so. The chimney (my apologies to those who like hard chimneys) really detracts from the quality of this line, and the offwidth just before the chimney isn't much fun either, unless you really like grunt work, ha ha. Once out of the chimney, Days of Future Passed is a 4 star route.
The delicate slab climbing to start pitch 4 feels more like .10a than 5.8 and lead falls on pitches 3 and 4 could be quite serious. 5.10a A0 R or 5.10d/5.11a R if you free the opening traverse.
Great summit, great views. We rapped from the top of End Pinnacle in 3 raps with one 70m rope and a little down climbing. A 60m rope will not make the final rap as our 70 just made it to the boulder with rope stretch.
You can rappel the route directly climber's right of Days with double ropes. From the top, use the rap rings you clipped on your way to the anchor near the bowl and rap 90' to the third belay on days. Then rap the bolt line climber's right of Days. Easy to find the anchors, clean pulls and you end up at your packs. Don't know if a single rope will do it.